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Is this the main control regulator for the exciter field, or a 24VDC one? The cost of materials isn't a lot for the DC regulator, but fabricating a housing, assembling a board, testing, and potting takes more time that one would guess it does!

It's nice to bump in to a fellow Ham. I've been one for something like 20 years. I need to go to a hamfest! I haven't been to one for a few years now.

OK I understand now. You need to use a volt meter or a multimeter configured for measuring volts to measure between the connector and ground, not an ammeter. The panel meter gets its power right after the "start relay", which closes when the oil pressure comes up. Does the engine start and...

I'm not sure what the "single socket" is you're referring to, but if you have an ammeter and put the red lead on something like a live 24V terminal and put the black lead on ground, you create a short circuit that will either blow a fuse somewhere or wreck your meter.

I don't see any chewed insulation or other damage from mice. I see only one red connector that looks like you replaced a blue one. It looks like the red one is on CVT1 (not CT1). Post the terminal numbers of the damaged/burned wires so we can see which ones they are, and maybe we can try to...

Good advice. I don't mean to split hairs, but I think it's likely an analog meter will read average, as opposed to RMS, unless specifically designed for RMS. In this case it probably doesn't make enough difference to matter.

It's good to see you posting, Jerry.

That sounds like something is backwards. Is the battery connected backwards? (check battery negative to generator frame, should read zero volts)

Sure, thanks for asking.

Thanks Ike. Like I always say though, put the new one in service and take advantage of the 2-year warranty. Keep the original for the spare.

Ha, it would be a drop-in job if the wires didn't have to be soldered to the fuse holder. I put a couple bullet connectors on mine so I can change them quickly when testing. Here are a couple photos:

I got a test version of the 24V regulator in my 003A today and it works well. While the generator was running, I disconnected the battery and let it run for around 1/2 an hour. Everything continued to work normally, and the AC ripple was only about 65 millivolts RMS, thanks to the big...

The pumps use a solenoid to return a piston and compress a spring. The spring then pushes the piston, which pumps fuel. If the output is blocked, the spring pushes the piston slowly, since its movement is only from leakage around it. When the piston reaches the bottom of its stroke, an...

When starting my 003A, if I think it's time to release the start switch, I'll do it very briefly first. If I don't hear any change, I'll release it. If there is a momentary misfire and slight drop in speed, I hold it longer. As long as the engine doesn't slow down enough for the speed switch...

Also, what brand and part number are the plugs?

Assuming you want 120/240 single phase, there might be an argument for leaving it that way and not worrying about what the switch knob says, since it's working correctly. But is there any chance something simply rotated out of position, like maybe the knob itself, so what it points to is...

But he needs to check the acid level. If it's below the tops of the plates, he definitely should not charge it before adding water. If a lot of liquid was lost, he needs to add acid, not water.

Sewerzuk did some testing in this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?104566-How-important-is-injection-pump-timing-in-an-002a-003a-really

DiesleAddict, how about disconnecting the convenience outlet for the inspection? Just wondering...

The parts manual says it's part number 5905-00-081-7350. Searching for that number turns up suppliers that specify it as a wirewound resistor, 56Ω, 6.5 watts. A higher power rating would be OK, but not a lower one.