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My 003A does that occasionally. I took the starter apart, and cleaned and lubed everything that needed it, and it cured the problem for a year or so. Now I need to do it again and pay more attention to what might be making the solenoid linkage fail to return all the way. A tap on the linkage...

9 dB is actually an 8x power ratio. It's doubled every 3 dB, so 2x2x2=8. Perceived loudness is trickier, but that is a big difference. Where did you find those numbers? I looked for them a couple days ago and came up empty.

Is that a standard ASK he has, Jim?

You might consider getting the "ASK" enclosure for your 002A if it does what you need it to, but is just too loud. I've seen them offered for sale here occasionally.

That sounds correct according to the manual. Then if you have a typical real-world load of 10,000 VAR, PF=0.8, the meter will read 100%. No, the oddity is just in how the manual says to calibrate the meter so it reflects the capability of the generator with real-world loads. 12,500 watts...

The catch is that the generator is rated at 52 amps at 0.8 power factor. The manual states that if it's running a resistive load, full power is achieved when the meter reads 80% rated current. Running the generator with a purely resistive load of 52 amps at 240 volts is overloading it...

I won't be able to match that price, so I'm not sure I could add anything to the situation other than a warranty. Why do threads make it harder to install? Is it easier to use through bolts?

Crawdaddy, I'd very much appreciate it if you could send it here. I'll pay the postage, of course. I'll PM you my address. I don't need to unpot the electronics, but I do need the unit to get dimensions and bolt pattern. Is the unit exactly the same for the 016B and 701A?

I had not, but only because I don't have a 701A here. Do you know the rated output current from the alternator? If so, I'd need a failed regulator so I can design a drop-in replacement that mounts and connects like the original.

Yes, the HexFET I use is a variety of MOSFET. I find its main advantage is very low voltage drop, like a couple tenths of a volt. This leaves a little more for the battery, but more importantly it doesn't make much heat.

OK, that got me laughing, thanks. Price is a always a big concern of mine. The trouble of course, is that as far as products go, the demand for the things I make is very small, so there is no sending it to China to get them made for $25, for example. I make everything myself, with office...

No plans for a super capacitor that at this time. The capacitor I'll use will be an electrolytic that's big enough to filter the output of the diode bridge so that the control system is happy if the battery gets disconnected. I'm not sure what type of polypropylene capacitor you're referring to.

Or make the regulator with that in mind. Funny you should mention motorcycle regulators. Here's one I make: http://www.lakeserv.net/kaw/regulator/index.html

Good information, thank you. That sounds like every small capacitor across the 24V system was effectively trying to filter the very non-filtered DC from the charging circuit output. Little capacitors made for noise filtering on DC aren't designed to handle a ton of ripple, and the one on the...

Thanks Ike. Your questions are appreciated. No Guinea pigs will be harmed if I can help it. :-) I've been asked by several people on the board to make 24V regulators available. The reasons given to me include the high price and high failure rate of the originals. If I'm going to design...

I just spent about half an hour entering search strings like disconnect battery while running, regulator damage, no battery, disconnect battery, but didn't turn up what I was looking for. It seems to me I've read that disconnecting the 24V battery while an MEP-002A or MEP-003A is running is...

This thread contains the industry part numbers for the rotating diodes: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62648-MEP-002A-and-003A The usual suppliers like Mouser.com stock them, and they're fairly inexpensive.

I bet you'll be OK when you replace the bad capacitor. My 003A starts my industrial 5hp 2-stage compressor OK. It has a 1725 RPM Baldor motor, I assume something like what you have.

You may have read it already, but back on the 2nd page, Speddmon posted a PDF file from the manufacturer of the breaker, that tells how it works. Large overloads will trip it immediately. It doesn't sound like 39 amps would fall into the "large" category, but there has been some mention of...

GEMS has a line of level switches that may help. I haven't done the research, but here's the page from their site: http://www.gemssensors.com/Products/Level/Single-Point-Level-Switches/Float MSC Industrial stocks some of them...