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No, it is engineless. It is a Pacer X with a factory tach and full gauge console. It was a stick shift car, but it had a 6 cylinder in it. It needs lots of TLC. Are you interested? My Son said he wants to put a 6.0 in it. I don't see that happening soon.

These are the troop seat uppers that I have. If they interest you I will get a quote

Did he give you the hood ornament? I sanded and painted that carefully

Very nice. I see that it has a hole in the hood where the Chevrolet hood emblem was. That hood was off of a 1986 Chevrolet Suburban that was fully equipped, and it was the only highly optioned Suburban I ever seen that had a factory 4 speed granny low 4 Speed in it. It had every option...

Take the hood hinge bolts off and let the hood attached to the assist springs

Going in start and remove the wiper motor and loosen the clamp on the motor ball to linkage. Do not take the nut from the motor shaft. Take the hood hinges only off and allow the springs to remain attached to the hood . Let the hood arch up and tilt forward. Now remove the entire metal and...

If it were my truck I would clean and repair the pinch weld area of the cab. That vent is leaking because the cowl area has some issues with cracked sealer or rust in that area. The vents only ever had sponge rubber seals. Getting the water away from the top quickly and not allowing it to dam up...

That blue wire goes to a fuel pump on the M1010 models. The fuel pump is mounted on the left inner fender and pumps fuel to the rear diesel fired heater in the rear of the M1010. It is not used on other units and does not get attached to anything. I think it also is used on the winterization kit...

Here are some more things I found. The CUCV electric book is a very informative book on the CUCV glow plug system. Very helpful

I had a new furnace put in 2 weeks ago. I had to move lots of things in my basement. My wife used to tell me she had lots of CUCV parts for me. She would buy them on EBay or where ever she found them. She always took great interest in the parts I said were hard to come by. I found one of here...

This is what a new resistor looks like.

You don't need that capacitor. The wire will plug directly into the fan motor.

I had this issue on several plow trucks, and I had an electrical shop put a separate relay in for the blower motor. I never done it to my own trucks but customers with snowplow trucks found that low glowing light annoying and that solved the issue. Running 24 hours straight with everything...

Strip out some of the interior and check it out.

Ok. I see one of these capacitors over on the heater end on the firewall. I don't know that there are capacitors on the heater side. Maybe 1 on the blower motor wire. This piece is attached to the black tin cover under the hood on the heater box cover. Flat ribbon of brightly colored wires blue...

Next step is to strip the cab dash area down this far and start spraying water. That will tell you where it is coming in. I recommend having the windshield installed. Good Luck.

Rust is a possibility. The seam sealer is also very dry and brittle. Finding a water leak on a internet thread is going to an endless mission. These trucks are 40 years old and have been kicked, drilled, modified and beat since day 1.

No this is screwed to the outside of the heater box behind the battery. It has 2 small 7mm hex head screws holding it in place. And I think those 3 round things on the wiper motor are capacitors. They are to reduce noise and avoid interference with radio equipment. Police cares have or had...

The resistor is under the hood behind the rear battery.