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I've been thinking about this. It would be better to use three in series, since when the generators are out of phase the peak is about 340 Volts.

I built one and would be happy to test yours for you, but I imagine shipping back and forth just for the test would not be worth it to you.

I wonder if the ammeter is supposed to have a shunt connected to it to carry most of the current, but it's missing.

There is, on page 6-12 of manual TM5-6115-585-34, but it takes a couple meters, a variable transformer, and T1 and T2 from the control box.

Wiring diagrams and schematic start on page 4-94 of the first manual I posted too.

You're welcome, Lee. I've found quite a few on Igor's site. Strangely, some are under "Military Generators" and some are under "Other Generators": http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/

There are a couple manuals here: http://www.google.com/url?q=http://igor.chudov.com/manuals/Military-Generators/MEP-701A/TM-5-6115-640-14-and-P.pdf&sa=U&ei=T34qUf70C_CH0QHHx4HoBw&ved=0CBsQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGxm0DqVPoL4aZfqrqVknkgNdaSPQ...

I'm probably forgetting, but last I remember, you were soldering to the stub of the broken wire on the original capacitor. What did you end up using? Edit: I searched the thread and found it on p. 4. I was getting you mixed up with another member, I guess.

Jonathan, you must have the type of hour meter I have, which is the old type that has a spring driven clock movement that gets wound once in a while by an electromagnet. If you cut power to it shortly after it goes "click" and winds the spring, it will keep running until the spring winds down.

Very cool, Jim. I'll print the hour meter mounts and you cut the gaskets. :-D

No, it shouldn't. It's supposed to run only if there's oil pressure and the master switch is in one of the two prime/run positions, or if the switch is in the start position.

Don't assume the regulator is bad if you haven't tested it. The problem could be something as simple as another broken wire.

I can't think of any reason it won't work fine, but you'll still need to observe the maximum rating of an MEP-002A, since I assume the main breaker is still the one for a 5 kW unit, and there are control components that aren't right for exceeding the rating of an MEP-002A. Yes, you're right...

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I hope you disconnected the batteries. They'll cause as much or more damage than 120/240VAC if something is shorting.

I don't remember if you already did this, but it sounds like a compression test might be in order. My oil pressure is about at the top of the gauge when cold and drops to around 30-35 when hot, but that depends a lot on just what oil you're using and how long it's been in there. Oil pressure...

Jim, the behavior of your frequency meter sounds like the way mine behaves when it's way below speed. It's all over the place, and then when I get close to 1800, it does what it's supposed to. No smoke from my dipstick tube.

Good work getting it running, and not surprising that's all it took. I help a neighbor keep his Ford NAA tractor running. 90% of the time he has trouble, I clean the points and dry the inside of the distributor and it runs fine again.

I have a feeling there are plenty. I was looking at the 004A manuals today and found a bunch. The worst was a schematic that had transistors with unconnected leads.

OK Thanks. I'll remember that it matches cars.