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I had previously edited my post a bit after you posted at 00:12, but I don't understand why two lights are needed for 3-phase synchronization. I would have thought that connecting one lead of the light to each generator at the same point would indicate the phase difference just like it does in...

Once two synchronous generators are wired together, both engines are forced to run at exactly the same RPM. You could shut off one engine, and the running generator will force it to continue to turn at 1800 RPM unless a breaker trips. Increasing the throttle on one will put more torque into...

You can get name brand solar panels these days for around one dollar per watt. I have some made by Uni-Solar. They are flexible, self-adhesive and so rugged you can throw rocks at them without damage, but they seem to be hard to find at the moment. There are others to choose from...

I have the meter wired to read regulator current, which on an 002A or 003A is not the same as the exciter field current. The exciter field current is supplied by CVT1 and the rectifier bridge A4. CVT1 has three sections, so it senses all three phases. It also has a control winding in each...

I have a Coleman rooftop heat pump in a motor home. The unit is made by Airxcel. It works well down to about 40F. Below that, it tends to have the evaporator ice up, since there's no automatic defrost cycle like home units have. It shuts off the compressor around 35F or so, and closes a...

I'm not sure this makes my 003A more civilized, but it will let me understand when the regulator is working hard and when it's not. I found a small 0-2 milliamp meter in my spare meters box and made a shunt for it so it reads 0-2 amps. The wire that normally goes to terminal 17 on the...

Sorry, my TV isn't that big, so no, I can't do that, but I know at least some new TVs will run on anything from 100 to 240VAC, so as long as you send the right 70" TV here, I'll try it. :-D

You're certainly welcome. I had it going for several minutes without regulation, and the 120V control components held up fine. That's a good sign, I think. :-)

As promised, I when I ran my MEP-003A today, I disconnected the regulator at terminal 17 so that no control current flowed through the control windings of CVT1. I used a Fluke 87 to measure the output voltage, and found 168v from each line to L0, and 336V from L1 to L3. No particular point...

The only way to convert a 400 Hz generator to 60 Hz is to change the generator head and a bunch of control components.

Yes, it sounds right.

In the TM you referenced, isn't the regulator schematic shown on the 2nd to last page? In that schematic, all the generic component part numbers are shown.

If you're ever going to use the generator to power emergency communication equipment, especially HF radios, you'll see why the capacitors were originally installed. As a ham, I cringe just a little when I hear about taking them out. I realize that most of these generators won't be asked to...

The Current meter seems to be bouncing off its zero stop from vibration. If your hand held meter says the voltage is steady at 120/240, then Richard's theory is looking good. See if the current meter starts behaving when you put a load on the generator and the needle comes off the stop.

I'd start by looking for a short in the glow plug circuit, since they're active in positions other than off or prime, but then you said it first tripped while running, so maybe I'm wrong. Maybe clarify what positions trip the breaker, because there are two prime and run positions, the start...

Now that you mention it, that's worth looking into. When I did my low RPM regulator current test, I definitely noticed erratic meter display when well below 1800 RPM, especially with the frequency meter.

I'd want to find the cause of and cure the fluctuating gauges. I can envision something like an intermittent partial short in the wiring that's really drawing current intermittently, for example. But since you're getting steady voltage, it looks like your generator is working fine.

If the generator isn't loaded and it's 40F out, the shutters, which are actually the air outlet, won't open much, if any. At least that's the way my 003A is. Keep an eye on them though, because on a warm day and under load, they should open quite a bit. Last summer, while powering my house...

I wondered about that, and the fact that the text size is smaller. Maybe someone in the room is asleep and he's trying to be quiet.

That looks like a decent one for 12 and 24 Volt batteries. I got at kick out of the 7200 mA rating. I guess they think that sounds a lot better than 7.2 Amps.