Search results

The design of the LBCD with the capacitors was as you mentioned, to provide a “load” for the alternator in the event it commanded a disconnect of the batteries. Think of it like one of those runaway truck ramps with the loose sand and gravel. It catches the trucks(alternator) energy when the...

Well the caps are built into the LBCD, so removing it removes the caps. i would NOT put the disconnects on the ground side. Again, you do not want to disconnect the alt from the batteries while still leaving it connected to the rest of the electrical system. the issue with ground side...

The cogen project I participated in, we were working with a 24V Leece and our reg was pushing it up to 48V. Way more efficient operation that way…

I would not put any form of disconnect between the alternator and the batteries/load. HardWire it in like you show the starter. it is considered poor form and dangerous to disconnect the load from a running alternator. The electrical section in any automotive service manual usually includes...

Something like this is an option to modify the existing mount. You have to cut a notch for the rear alt tab, and a spacer for the front, and do a little relief grinding on 2 of the ribs. You also need to fab a strut for the top mount tab over to the engine. With the mount out of the truck...

Yea need more info… i don’t understand the other pump either, how is it plumbed, how is it controlled. The fuel system moves a lot of fuel and must run at specific pressures. Modifications done incorrectly can restrict fuel and KILL the MUI injectors…

On an A0 chassis and transmission, the engine and transmission don’t need to communicate. the earlier transmissions only really need a throttle position input and they had a standalone TPS sensor to accomplish this. You could probably recreate this configuration and add a standalone TPS sensor...

On the A0 trucks and early A1 trucks its the 15PSI oil switch That controls alt. on the A1s they altered the circuit slightly so that the same relay(K11) first enables the starter, then disables the starter after oil pressure is sensed and enables the alternator. The neutral circuit also...

Mine is pretty steady/consistent. Another thing to look for is AC component(ripple) on the DC lines.

But it sounds like you are dividing your power system, one for starter, one for pdp? I dont personally see a need for this... The alt must see both 12 and 24v connections to a series battery string to regulate correctly. Beyond that you should be able to pull 2.8KW@28v. Mine does...

That sounds a little complex. Now a second set of batts isnt a bad idea especially if you are in VERY cold(below zero) temps. But that can be done with a simple BIRD relay either on a timer or a current sense control. Allows time for first batt to charge then connects second, or waits till...

The 12v load is under 30A... my vanner does not show any i dication of warmth and its under my passenger dash...

I would say fluctuations would be as likely a poor/weak connection as a failing component. As I recall General found a bad connection just inside the front case where the Regulator connection is located…

Even 100A @28V is a LOT of power. 2.8KW. The issue with the 100A dual volts is that the load on the 12v side reduces its output by 1/3, to ~1950W when both sides are fully loaded. If S&S would have put in a straight 24v alt and a converter/equalizer, these trucks would have been bulletproof...

Yep, and i think you will find it probably hangs around 3300W, as that is where mine stopped building any more field. The field determines the output so full field should continue to maintain that output(P over I times E), as the load pulls down the voltage. At the point I went to(~120%), the...

And when you get done with that 200A test, perform the same test on a different 24v@ 100A alt… What you describe is what I would expect to happen on any alt. It will continue to deliver its maximum output in watts, because it will continue to maintain a field till it returns to its commanded...

They do not appear to be that inteligent…

Yea there are several places for issues: sensor to bulkhead, bh to harness, harness to cab bulkhead connector and cab BH to internal connectors on TCU. In the case of my interference issue, it could also be a shield or missing ground along the path, or leakage in a contaminated connector...

I have probably played around with more alternators than most, my two diesel generators, I built myself. I participated in some R&D with a group working to develop a more efficient DC generator/cogenerator for off grid battery maintenance, with a custom arduino based regulator that actually...

i believe the 3 ohm for the diff solenoid is correct. If the speed sensor measures 9.5 independent of the pass-thru connector, it sounds bad to me… as to the wire moving like Skyhawk describes, it could be hydraulics. Oil and big spinning gears in there. mine is occasionally showing a speed...