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The allison manual says 30 ohms for the retarder solenoid, but the 34-1 manual says the center diff solenoid is 3-5 ohms, mine measures 3.3 ohms… i would pull the rear access cover and check the speed sensor resistance disconnected from/ independent of the transfer case pass-thru connector… an...

It was this one, but it may have been he needed a .PDF app on his Ipad to open it fully… https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fmtva1-electrical-schematics.158229/

Message me your Email mike and I can send it to you as a .PDF.

Yea the trans is also 24v. pretty straightforward and far simpler to replace the dual volt with a straight 24v alt and use a 24-12 converter(easier more efficient conversion) to provide for the 12v lighting loads. Victron makes a nice 70A one that will fit in the passenger dash and would be...

Well if something wasn’t broke, why fix it… it isn’t just alternators that were failing. Low state of charge is the biggest killer of batteries, and it takes long run times to top off 240AH of depleted batts with a 100A dual volt. With more than half their 12V capacity consumed by lighting...

I was thinking about a rail on either side of the rad. You could slip panels up these rails to progressively block the surface, or place something like a roller door at the bottom to push a panel up. The shade idea should also work…

Sales hype? The cautions in their troubleshooting manuals clearly contradict this…

it isn’t limiting its current it limits its voltage, simply because it cannot make any more under increasing load Despite full field being applied… I can increase the load on it, and the voltage drops. but if you look at it in terms of watts, you will find the alt is still putting out a...

The shunt is in the loadbank connected at alternator...

I got a chance to play with the alt this afternoon, and voltage dropped off steeply once it hit full field Drive, same as any other alt. Using the rated +/- 0.5 criteria, I hit 27.5V ~120A(3300W). It fell past 25V just above that. I have an aging 1000A pile, so precise adjustments in the low...

Yea depends on hours, how many leaks you have, compressor condition..

I never separated the plastic desiccant cover from the inner aluminum tube. It being on the downstream side of the filter and dessicant, mine was perfectly clean down inside. The plastic core, air filter and aluminum tube came out as one assembly from the finned outer housing. I showed...

Oops, Didn’t forget the double tap…

what we are talking about here is the gauge sender, that provides the info to drive the oil pressure gauge. I still have the 15 PSI low oil pressure switch in place driving its normal idiot light and alt excite relay K11…

I have only run mine to 100A, Let me see how my schedule shakes out this weekend maybe I can hookup again and collect some other data, as I will be backing the frame into the garage to weld up my hydraulic habitat restraints.. With 100A applied at idle I had .4v drop from 28V and .1V drop at...

Removed the oil sender. I prefer long sweep gauges personally(270+ sweep), most electric gauges are short sweep(90-180 deg). Overall I have had better luck with mechanical gauges over the year…

yes and no. Alternators are rated to deliver their rated voltage up to their rated current. At this point they are basically driving the field near or at 100%, so have no more output to give. Any loading beyond this point will cause a decrease in output voltage. This decrease in voltage is...

The gauge sender provides a variable resistance to ground based on the pressure it sees, so you can connect tgat srnder lead to ground thru a resistor and you should see a different reading on the meter. I forgwt what ohm.range we run. Replaced mine with a mechanical gauge:)

Sounds like sending unit problem. The 15psi oil pressure idiot light sw is a separate switch plumbed to the same oil manifold...

You should be able to block that hand pump return line with a gauge and should see no more than about 5 PSI on it while fluid is returning, if the check back to the AOP return line is opening and flowing properly...