Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
There's nothing to look for. There is a connector on the tach sensor and all it does is connects to the ICE plug for troubleshooting. Unplug that sensor and plug in a twisted pair of wires and run it to your tack. Here is a picture... mine is black, yours is yellow but they are the same. The...
Approximately 5 weeks ago I made the comment that I just needed a simplistic valve to operate the rear steering cylinder rather than a much more expensive proportional type system. Then I explained a more complicated system. After explaining I got to thinking about it more and that was that...
I changed the wipers because I was installing a dome light in front of the wiper motor. I changed the light switch so the open switch goes to the white light and the lock switch side goes to the blue light. I installed Rivnuts and rubber isolaters to mount the light.
What are you using to determine that it is engaged all the time? Is it just because it is still spinning? Just an FYI but the fan spins all the time when it is running but when engaged it spins with much greater force. When the engine is running you can disconnect the the time delay and that...
The original wire used for the motor was a 4 conductor multi gauge wire. Two 12 gauge wires and two 14 gauge wires. I wasn't able to find that wire so I went with 12/4 outdoor audio cable. Any other 12/4 wire was too thick to fit the water tight compression fitting. I crimped on spade...
I ordered a couple LED lights that matched the ones I used on the dash panel. The new speedometer had an incandescent light bulb that I figured was the reason the lighting is orangish.
I changed out the light bulb and here's the results. I also changed out the Tachometer light as well. It...
They aren't that hard to find ... ESP usually has a few listed. here's an example https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/5097/HM-697-HMMWV-6-Point-5-Liter-General-Motors-Diesel-Engine
https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/7695/HM-1243-HMMWV-6-Point-5-Liter-General-Motors-Diesel-Engine...
The easiest and probably the cheapest repair is a drop in take out engine. Upgrades, swaps and turbos will take much more time and money. Keep posting picture of the progress and good luck!
I guess but I don't think an oil spring would do that much damage to the surface. I'm not sure what they look like in one of these motors but that does look like threads. I was only guessing based on past experience with similar type of catastrophe.
I think I used this one https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-5204-Solutions-Pedestal/dp/B0002M701S and it looks the same as the one juanprado mentioned above.
I had to cut the back off it so it only covers the side and front of the gauge.
That tach will work, it is what I have on mine. It is not the exact same as the one pictured. The mount in the one pictured is harder to find and costs a lot if you do. You can buy that kit on epay for over $500. I used the same tach you linked and bought an aftermarket mount that doesn't...
On the driver side valve cover, is there a sticker identifying what engine you have? The 6.5 came as a GM and later GEP. The GEP being the better of them. Good luck and keep us informed.
First, I'm not sure what the HUGE space is in your initial post but I'd edit it and get rid of it.
Second, basic testing would be in order to determine exactly what the problem is before tearing it all apart.
Last, if it is "early GM" such as 6.2 and a 3 speed transmission or if it is 6.5/3sp...