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My tailgate has many dents from the pintle hitch. I'd like to replace it. The tailgate on it is plain, no writing. I've seen AM General tailgates and was wondering what years had what or were the AM General tailgates used on specific models? Is there any rhyme or reason or where they just...
Several things I can think of when I did mine and things didn't work as intended, on the rear lights there is a strap that goes to both of the mounting bolts. If you didn't put that strap on the some of your lights won't function correctly. Both bolts are grounds to different light functions...
After the seal channel was fixed around the door it was time to put the new seal in. Since it is not molded with a corner I decided to make the corner the point where the seal ends would meet. Also this allowed me to feed the seal in. In the first picture there are 2 red arrows pointing to a...
The first step was removing the old seal. The ends of the seal meet in the middle bottom of the door. I tried to pull it out but it's held in pretty tight so I started on the side and pulled out easy. I pulled the seal out of most of the door but the bottom and bottom corners were not...
I purchased new X-door seals from MME ($30 each) and overall I am happy with the purchase however they are not exactly correct. They have the correct part numbers and they are labeled "replacement". There is a part number for each door. The description is front or rear and left or right...
Dude, you should absolutely take him up on this offer. Then use good quality Crimp type heat shrink butt connectors. Then use some black heat shrink tubing over the butt connectors. I'll send you some black heat shrink tubing if you need it.
The resolution isn't great but these look like crimp pins to me. First you typically can't remove solder cup pins. Second, the pin is right to the wire insulation. Third, they don't have the side missing for soldering. Those pins all look good, too bad you cut them off already, I bet you...
A check valve is often a spring loaded ball and seat. Use a compressed air hose to check it. Your lungs might not be able to overcome the spring pressure.
General rule of thumb for fuel lines. The larger one is the supply and the smaller one is the return.
You could also pull the hose off the check valve after the check valve and see if you have fuel flow.
Here's a post I did where I had to reuse a crimp terminal and solder it. Note I still crimped the wire in place and then wrapped the wire around the terminal to help hold it physically since I couldn't actually crimp the wire strands...
FYI, I have no personal experience with the connector you are talking about but I have done LOTS of connectors and soldering. First, did the original connector have soldered connections? I ask because every connector on my HMMWV has crimp connections and not soldered. Whatever is on it can...
LOL, thanks, no I am not an engineer. I'm just an enthusiast and my hobby is this truck. A little searching, reading, measuring and researching part numbers will get you a long way. I do have mechanical and electronic abilities but nothing more than most people could do if they applied...
I found a 2 pole motor on epay and asked for the dimensions. The motor has the same diameter and length body so I'm hoping the magnets are the same. It's a gamble but I think it's a safe bet. I was also able to remove the bearings and seal to order new ones. Hopefully it will be like new...
I learned a lot about the Turret motor assembly. First it's made in China!! Or at least the motor is but I suspect it is entirely made in China. That explains the missing o-ring in manufacturing and ultimately the total failure. That said it's nothing more than a Mobility wheelchair drive...
In the above quote I explained the "plan" for simplicity and not taking the more difficult and costly route of building a proportional rear steering. That said, I don't really have a plan I just kind of dive in and see where things take me. The more I thought about what I wrote about not...