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I'll be hole sawing the back of the cab. I hate the ideal but it's so easy to use some 3M VHB tape to patch it when I'm done I don't know why it stresses me. It's the driver's side rear cab bolt that seized.

Does any have a favorite body bushing kit form the K30 based trucks? I've got the core support off and they're pretty rough hardware wise. I'd like to do the cab as well but one of the blind nuts is spinning 🤬.

If you have dimensions I can get a part number for a Viton seal that won't dry out and crack.

A fully charged battery does not equal starting fresh. Batteries lose capacity over time while they can be charged fully they lose their ability to drive the amps required to start an engine. If the battery can sit at 12.6 volts, it is fully charged. Put your volt meter directly on the battery...

Normally, a wire spacer is put behind the seal to get it off the groove in the shaft. Seals typically sit in a step in their housing so they can't be pushed in further. I would be surprised if the groove were so bad it would cause significant leakage immediately with a new seal. I would look...

Gaskets go on dry as much as possible. Coating gaskets causes gasket extrusion. RTV and Anaerobic gasket makers are the best and most current options for form in place. All of the other stuff is obsolete at this point. For the fuel pump, I used no gaskets, just anaerobic gasket maker. I don't...

Anti-seize should be called anti-gall. There are much better options out there to prevent thread corrosion. Low strength Loctite, silicone grease, Tef-Gel are all superior options. Loctite can be an ideal choice because it dries which facilitates painting. You can prep zinc coated fasteners...

Don't be tempted to use lithium grease here. That stuff hardens up quickly with time. Use a dedicated cable lubricant as mentioned above, typically silicone based. Check your local bicycle shop if you can't find it elsewhere.

One piece of advice, and this is especially important for hydraulic hoses that see impulse and vibration, is to apply the chafe gear to both sides if possible.

There are compression fittings that are superior to flared fittings. They're too expensive to be used for production vehicles which is why you don't see them. It's not because they are inferior. Swagelok and clones are prime examples.

The unit under the radiator is only a differential pressure sensor, not a valve. If it senses a pressure difference between front and rear due to a loss of fluid it shifts and turns on the warning light.

I believe drum brakes auto adjust when reversing. Do a couple of quick stops in reverse to get everything synchronized up.

So SKF is actually recommending preload on tapered roller bearings for longest life. I guess that means some drag is acceptable. I wonder how backing off to the first key affects the preload. https://www.skf.com/binaries/pub12/Images/0901d1968065f1f4-Bearing-preload_tcm_12-299896.pdf

Definitely an option. The way it sits right now, I only ran in to one of the mounting holes. The arm also has the wrong bend to it and hits exhaust and the eventual doghouse. I'm going to try putting the 3rd bolt hole in the doghouse and use standoffs on the other two. Then I just need to...

Yokohama has decent prices on 37x12.5-17 tires. I'm not a HMMWV guy but where did the 18" rim size come from? It seems like you're shooting yourself in the foot with an odd ball wheel. I believe I paid $1700 for 5 tires in 37 on 17 inch rims.

The engine will start without glow plugs at 80F after about 30 seconds of cranking. But, you're not getting any white smoke out the exhaust? That means no fuel. Disconnect shutdown solenoid wire. Open the valve on the top of the filter housing and crank until you have fuel coming out...

When stored wet or without properly treated coolant, corrosion in the water pump can tighten things up though I would expect the belts to slip.

Glow plugs are a lot easier to pull. Sounds like you have a cylinder full of water or fuel.

It is possible to convert. You can install a threaded rod with Loctite in the angled hole, cut off flush, and drill new straight holes. I wouldn't recommend this for your case because it won't likely save you anything vs exchanging but if anybody sees a screaming deal on some center mount...

The C code engines connected the ports left to right bank in the intake manifold. It helps reduce the exhaust drone sound at certain engine speeds. The C code engines also had a muffler before the air cleaner.