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Looks like they did things wrong up top by the way it smokes. Why did they NOT put like for like injectors back in? Top stops are fine, but i'm not understanding why they had to change to a totally different type. If they did the overhead wrong and set the injectors too tight/not in the correct...

Gear housing, pump drive gear, fuel lines need changing. For the lines you will need an ESN for a P pumped C with an aftercooler so you can get the lines. When the P pump was introduced, IIRC 1994, the engines went from aftercooled to charge air cooled. Industrial kept aftercooling for a time...

Yup, that's a good one!

Take it to the shop

That is what I meant, the environment it was in while opened up. The size of the hit on the piston and head is what would determine the reuse of the rod. One little piece stuck in a piston from a failure in another cylinder, it would be ok. If the crown is unrecognizable, time for a rod.

It can be re cored.

The only issue I see is that it comes off the mount complete, and, as you already know, it is heavy. Yes, IF it was ever needed there most likely would be a second person, but, still, together, it will be a hand full to wrestle down. How did you get it up there?

Unless the block is cracked between the liners, it can easily be fixed in chassis. The parts just need replacing. IF what happened to Mos' engine was a warrant able failure, it would have got a new head, turbo, up to 6 cylinder kits, aftercooler, rods as deemed necessary by the inspecting...

Sorry, thought I read 923. That is the vent line. Simp, did you roll your truck ;)? akita91, if your engine doesn't have it, you need to put one in.

The stat SHOULD be a 180, the gauge might be off a bit. I do not remember if the NHC has a deairation line routed to the surge tank. I can look when I go to "work" next Tuesday. The line should start at the stat housing before the stat and go to the surge tank, there is always a positive flow...

Please, use caps and spacing between your sentences, it makes it a whole lot easier to read things....especially for us older dudes! Please update your location from your zip to a city. Use your favorite flavor of engine oil, 15w40 is the proper wt. Myself, I like Valvoline. It doesn't get as...

Meh, there aren't even any Jakes on it.....Amateur! AANNNDDD, with the "charge air cooler" mounted against the block, how does that work?

Hey Mos, you DID replace the aftercooler, didn't you? All the pieces of the dropped seats find their way to other cylinders via the intake. They are moving at a very high velocity and some pieces like to get wedged in the aftercooler core. YOU will not be able to see them or get them out, but...

I'm pretty sure the one you got from Memphis will work, it is just an updated deal, but, if you want one that LOOKS like your old one, try a Midland RM1720221. https://www.haldex.com/en/na/air-wiper-motors/air-control-valves/trico-compatible/rm1720221/ Try a NAPA store, and bring your old...

No need to bleed anything. The Bosch in line pumps self bleed. Hold the throttle pedal to the wood and crank it. Mos, no break in oil needed, just run it 'til the next oil change interval, unless you were dirty going together, like lots of dirt/dust flying around with things open. I am not a fan...

Any Mfgr names or numbers cast into the old switch?

Cool on progress...unlike OTHERS!!! What happened to your font size :shock: Load the pig as soon as you can, no idle, no stop and go.

Ordeal to install. If you don't use it for what it is made for, you have a big oil pump installed on your engine. Stick with the 13 CFM comp.

No, IIRC there are two different sizes. Make them install your old one.

Air it up from another source and lay under it. If it leaks down to zero in 30 min, it should be fairly easy to hear/find with no outside noise.