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Welcome to the site. I fully agree with the previous posters.....we like pics :-) If i were you i would just replace the J pipe, narrowing of the exhaust isn't going to help anything out and certainly might cause some issues in the long run.
yeah yellowbronc thats the lever, i know the original poster was asking if he could tell from the engine compartment pics but i thought i would show how the heater controls can be mounted in different positions.
Just POOF and no spark ,huh. Sounds to me more like a bad coil rather than the points. Usually the points either work or they don't after any sitting and since you had it running i'm gonna guess they are still OK. Then again i have zip for info on mogs.
Depending on who installed the heater kit the knobs can also be way over to the left like in my truck. Sorry for the crappy angle but i was trying to get the actual wire and air atachments for another member rather than the controls.
I too have been looking for some cheap IBC's. Just found a bunch today, guy has 50 or so for sale. Formerly held the liquid dye used to color barkmulch, i hear its at least biodegradable :? . Need to see just how bad the stuff is. Want's 50 bucks with the metal cage around them :-)
first off i would check to make sure that the fuel shutoff on the IP is actually functioning and in the on position. And it can take a ton of cranking to get fuel sometimes. I'm certainly no 5 ton expert so hopefully someone else can help you further.
I just can't resist either, the 2 year flaming doom prediction needs more explanation. I just can't stand not knowing. I promise i won't call you dirty names...if i don't like what your selling i just won't buy it :-)
I can appreciate the lack of cash due to school thing. But for that price you should buy both. Find some way to get the cash, fix one of them up and sell it. You will come out with a free truck. Heck if you fix it up well enough you might even make money on the deal. At the least go take a peek...
Nice lookin truck, i was hoping to get my deuce to weare but due to lack of time that just isn't gonna happen. Hopefully more of us northeast SS members can get together sometime this summer.
well, as i'm sure your aware machinery holds it value pretty well. If its good and solid you should be able to do all your tasks and resell for about the same as what you got it for. Not much really special to look at. Make sure it starts and runs well without much blowby. Take her for a spin...
uh, just how large are these "c clip" pieces??? Both in length and the what the guess-timated diameter they would be whole. Anyone else thinking rings???
+ 1 sarge, holy moly 4 years and it still runs, i knew these were tough engines but WOW. Better pull that pan and take a peek, and grab us some photos while your at it if you could.
Scott
Thanks for the reminder bump M37, Any updates on the rally??? How bout the convoy routes??? I really want to make the haul in the deuce but it would be a much more enjoyable 6-7 hour ride if i met up with the convoy.
oh, forgot to mention, as if it wasn't obvious. Don't use the nylon lockwashers, use the all metal deformed thread type ones. By the way newmvguy, there is a fastenal store near here too. Went in to get my deuce bolts and came out with a part time job :-)
Those do see to do that...heres my thread from when i found mine loose http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=22508&highlight=pucker
Size is 1/2-20 X 1 3/4, the bolts are cheap enough that you may as well replace them while your replacing the nuts. Use grade 8...