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Injectors do not get adjusted. You can drill and tap the fitting going into the fuel pump and take your fuel pressure reading from there.

PM me both of the ESNs and I can tell you if the mount pads are the same. I don't think the FW hsg on the L will work on the C, the blocks are different, the service part for the block for the L is not backwards compatible to the C in the truck now

The cam will be out, I wouldn't screw around, just put a new cam in it while it's out. Put new push rods in it too, the adjustment seems to go away quickly if all the tappets and push rods aren't replaced as sets. A 10 t press will take the gear off. To put the gear on, it must be heated. DO...

If the ring gear is on the converter, you'll need to find a regular flywheel with the same tooth count as the Allison ring if you want use the starter that came withe your package. QSOL has no listing for a flywheel or flex plate, soooo, the starting device was supplied by the OEM as well as the...

Yes, SOME otr trucks are running electric fans. Also, all of the new New Flyer busses are electric, multi speed fan set ups. Those are on side radiator/CAC cooled ISLG engines, they run warm, way warmer than diesel, They work great, less HP robbed by a giant hydraulic pump, less noise, shorter...

That was the issue. With the over ride screwed in, the disc inside the FSOV assy is pushed off seat and that allows fuel to flow as long as the engine is running, there is fuel.

Well, does it run yet? :driver:

KISS. Check easy things first, check full throttle, LOOK at the lever tab and make sure it is touching the stop. Make sure the modulator cable isn't adjusted with a throttle arm NOT getting full travel. Check FSOV pull in distance. Check low side fuel pressure, possible overflow valve problem.

When a C over speeds, it will do a couple of things, IF it over sped. heads of the tappets break off, the rocker bolts are pushed out of the head, the threads just pull right out. Before you start rippin' and snortin' into it, you should probablt troubleshoot it. Are you sure the engine hasn't...

The tappets are flat slider type.

Or broken flywheel bolts. OP, does the damper turn when you crank it? Gas in a can ain't gooood for ANY diesel, try and avoid it, use something a bit less destructive, like a gas soaked rag or brake/carb cleaner.

Most all of the leaks will end up at the bottom/rear, gravity. Sounds like a cold water leak, meaning, it will only leak when cold, after coolant gets to temp, parts swell and the leak stops. Get a pressure tester and put 10 psi on it cold, before it is started. Look at all hose connections and...

Yup. I keep my TMs right next to the books that tell me how to fix maters and taters for grub

You put that across scales? Might be a tad over weight on steer and drivers, LEO might mess with ya.

^^Good guess! Are the filters dry? Tap on them with a wrench, if they "ting" no go juice. If they "thunk", they are full.

Next is a QSB6.7 marine engine, 1400 hrs old, 425hp, again, 9 mins of 0-zero oil pressure.

Here are a couple of bottom end failures, 1st one is a 2016 QSB4.5 that was ran low/out of oil.

Good deal on having the trans, and you do know to ditch the fan that is on the engine now, correct?

Ever SEE what water does to the piston on a compression fired engine?

Small cams weren't the only cam eaters, BC2 and 3 MVT engines liked to eat cams and the early L10 was REAL bad, Seen those leave friday and be back monday, UPS had alot of issues with them