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Likely more productive if this were it's own discussion and not spamming up the ECO Hud thread again. But I'm out in any event.

I'll dig something up for ya on the fluid dynamic aspect. As far as the corrosive nature, that dates back to when I had a radiator shop. The supplier we used for cores (Modine) warned about running straight antifreeze (opposed to diluted). The literature provided at the time...

OK, that's cool !

I'll try to better denote my sarcasm and exaggeration in the future. Now I'll go remove and weight the 10 lb steel CTIS covers <-----sarcasm and exaggeration ;p

Not to offend those who do/did... Not in a MILLION years. As ballast for a farm tractor to help keep the vehicle from tipping over, sure. Beyond that, nope. My reasons are based on fluid dynamics. But if people "think" it helps, that's all that matters. :) *and if you do...

Yeah, with 5 lbs of CTIS hoses and valves asymmetrically on one side , 10 lbs metal CTIS covers with non-symmetrical cuts......I'm realistically not expecting to ever have "balance"... That said, I have zero vibration on my A1R truck at 60mph. <knocks on wood> I don't plan on...

The big draw of ECO hubs (at least for me) is that it's something that can be done in the driveway in about the same time it would take just to service the hubs. And it's just as easy to revert back to stock. Also factor in the price at around $2500 shipped Where 3:07's will...

Yeah, sorry I wasn't specifying your install. I was talking to the OP. I have Pacifica seats. They have their own recover on the seat. I opted to use the OEM female receiver that is actually bolted to the truck floor As I said, ymmv Huge fan of your build, btw :)

In case the engine has an issue, and Yeah, I typed gladhand...and went back to add rear (but brain farted when I did). He'd have figured it out, though. LOL

If you are animatedly opposed to being ejected thru the windshield, you may want to stick with keeping the female end attached to the actual truck and not the seat itself. ymmv There are lots of aftermarket seatbelt and harness solutions (especially in the racing world) but be aware of...

(removed because not ECO Hub related) :)

I take it you already know the parameters to make the front REAR glad hand even work as a air supply. *edit That said, I much prefer tapping a fitting and disconnect right off the fittings next too the tank. Because...reasons.

Awesome stuff, but time for it's own thread I think You might have surpassed the ECO Hubs topic here. Just sayin' :) And get one of these before you make a road trip. And a spare u-joint. Because...reasons. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0787C31T1 There's a couple...

OK, so the stock batteries are AGM 12v 20ah. Mine have always gone flat in a short period if the unit is not plugged in (so I know there is a draw). I've gone thru two sets of batteries to date and I'm not going to keep feeding this thing $150 worth of AGM batteries a couple times...

Chucky had his cab half raised (never do that, btw) and he opened the big cap on the side of the latch base (where the little red tab pops out when it locks). The instant he opened it, the hydraulic pressure vented...and dropped the cab...on his head. He had to be rescued....lucky...

If General Disorder is out: Bret Fox has NOS uppers (can always cut one down to make a lower). https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/266577282760520 Carlos had a big pile of NOS uppers (they were reasonably priced and I think someone may have cleaned him out to flip them)...

I will be sure to wear my helmet. :))

And it makes it that much harder on the scum who would steal them (which is sadly more common these days than the need to use them).

And a lot of the time, the simple thing is why it got picked for parts and/or put out to auction. My first truck was an '98 M1078 that I got from another member here. It had sold at auction as a "non runner". Cause: loose wire in the trans connection

Good job troubleshooting !