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You DO realise that the OP was like 4 years ago and the one after G's post was a year and a half? This is a dead thread man.

Sissy! Try an ISX! The NHC is a less than 1 day job. The N14 about 7 hrs for all 3 with brakes. 36 hrs for an ISX with good access. And, BTW, to do 1 head gasket on an NHC, you only need to remove the rocker box on the head you are removing.

The pump needs to come off and the front cover removed. DON'T try to pull that "cam" thing off. put the set screw back in it. DO NOT move the screws on either side of the "cam". Those 3 items are what set the throttle shaft travel. It needs to be an exact 27 degrees so the ports in the shaft...

Hey, I had one of those!! I'll see if I can dig up a pic. I miss it :-(

I did mine across the rails too, but did it in the space between/above the rear axles because I had my bows stored in the fornt cavity. To secure it, I used a small chain thru the ring and a turn buclet to sinch it up tight. The pins for the feet pull up against the frame rail on the other side...

First try turning the steeringwheel all the way left or right and see if the noise goes away. If it does, you COULD have a worn drive spline on the p/s pump or an air comp out of time, but, What you describe is absolutly normal.

By posts here, who here n the dry So. Cal area, would be interested in an Open House event at the Museum? Depending on the possible turn out, the M548 would be up and running, possibly the M578, maybe a LAV100, the LAPD one that was on loan to them from the Museum, shop area tour, free...

Before you go and pull it apart, troubleshoot it. Drop the pan, fill it with water and watch where the water is coming from. If it doesn't leak, put pressure on it.

Could just be the "pull in" part of the solenoid. I don't remember which pin is what, I will look in my manual today. I think it is A-ground, B-pull in and C-hold in. I will verify today. You need to check the voltage at the pull in. If there is battery voltage there when cranking, the solenoid...

Loaded the C and L series are getting 5.5 to 6.5. That is in transfer trucks, box trucks get around 5 to 7 depending if they are stop and go delivery types or say LA to San Diego trips.

If all the components on your engine except the block are in good shape and the knocking one is cheap enough...$3-400 bucks or less, use the two to make a good one. and you could have some spare parts like a F/P, turbo, injectors, etc. You have to take it out anyway.

No, not opinions, practical, working knowledge of the product. I don't care what the TM says, it's the gooberment. Nowhere in a Cummins manual does it say to replace the screen at ANY given mileage, hour, or fuel burned interval. The only time the screen gets serviced is at the time the pump is...

Guys, that screen filter is there for one thing only. It's there so if the pump takes a dump, the debris from the failure will not go into the injectors. It is not a filter that needs servicing. It flows backwards from a filter, flows inside to outside and there is a little magnet glued into the...

Seen a bunch of them. No fix, just re-block. You know how many trash trucks I had to swing engines on because of that? Too bad you are in Md, I just took a 1995 C model out of a Grove crane and put in a 2014 ISL in it's place. The job is not AQMD funded, so the engine is being scrapped. Even has...

ST-910...looks newer and in better shape than the one at work. I would bet your next paycheck, that is a liner driver for the C series engines.

This will work, Jacobs used to offer a set up like this, but technology is making this type of brake obsolete. You install a sender in the lock up port of the trans so the brake only works when the trans is in lock up. Still need to install a throttle switch. They work OK. They work better if...

Just be careful when using one of those cleaning pads on the deck. If you look at the liners, you'll see a little raised bead. DON'T knick it, hit it with the buffing wheel, nothing. That bead is the only thing that seals compression. Remember, it doesn't need to be all shiny to be clean. You'll...

Yes, those are the correct gaskets. The silver gaskets work good on new components, but when an engine gets miles on it, they don't work so well. Oil leaks were the biggest issue with those gaskets. Timing? I hope you mean overhead set. If you are messing with timing you need special tools to...

Or any Bosch authorized repair shop. They aint cheap though, last one I installed cost the customer $180.00.

There is only one place pressurized oil runs through the gasket. It is in the center, just behind the center head bolt on the fuel pump side of the engine, between the two push tube cavities. If the leak is at the rear of the head, i would start looking above the deck, unless you used old style...