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Yup, you'll need that plus a good pick to release the c clip. If you want or need a new ignition switch, now's a good time to swap that out, too.
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I did 4 gauge aluminum for mine. I was about the same distance if I remember right. I ditch witched it 2 feet deep inside a 3-inch pipe. Worked really good. As far as switching, I went a little overboard, but it's code safe where I am. I could have done the interlock very easily since my 200 amp...
Might need one of these? Won't know until you pull the wheel off and the upper spring? You have the compressor tool to take that off? Once you get in there you'll be able to tell what's broke off. I've got a bunch of these signal switches.
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I've looked at non grid tie systems for me. There are reasonably priced all in one inverters, 48 volt battery packs and solar panels that aren't crazy expensive and not hard to install out there. Can keep the 5 kw as a charger for it on cloudy days or when they need topped off. Most of the...
I don't think hillbilly rebuilds them but if he has what you need in stock I don't see why not go with them...plus he stands behind what he sells and the knowledge to help with what you're doing would be worth the extra money. I'd be curious about the pump price as the rebuild can cost all over...
Yup that would be a quick spark.. wasn't thinking...if I do anything I'll wire up a 4 pin relay...be nice if I could find a male connector to plug into the harness but not 100% needed.
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Ahhhhh that makes perfect sense it just didn't click until you said that. The relays that are 4 prong have that built in. I'll pin a jumper wire in it and call it a day.
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Ok so I got a question about the horn wiring. I was driving the other day and the horn blew for a second, then stopped, but then the horn button didn't work. Came home and found the horn fuse blown. Pop a new fuse in and turn on the blackout switch and the horn blows! Removed the relay and the...
That is for the key in buzzer for sure! I rip them out and don't put them back in...not needed. Did you get the lock out? I see the column in pieces. I got a ton of the turn signal switches still in the shiny wrap...got a steering wheel yet too...lol.
Looks like a sweet truck! So the oil light I'd start with the easiest thing I could get to which to me is the sensor itself on the back of the head. With the engine off the top where the wire bolts on should have 0 resistance however you want to test it...volt drop or ohms. If you jump that wire...
There should be some easy ones in the tm section in the sticky of this section. Don't use a civi harness pics...they won't be right.
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You don't need it. That's for radio interference of a rt524 that the military would use in the back. If you end up getting a radio then you can pop a new one on it.
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That's a nice set! Can't beat that they both run! If you're looking for a basic maintenance stuff there's a sticky in the genset section that has all the TM information and parts for oil and air filters numbers...plus everything parts wise. Are you looking for common problems? I think most...
You should pop this in parts wanted or hunt the radio section...I could only find the 9 foot one but maybe there's a 18 foot one out there or maybe an adapter to put 2 together.
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Yeah looks like one of the field coils burned up. I wouldn't use that part. Do you have another you could part out to use? I have seen a few of these nos on surplus sites but it isn't that cost effective. That type of damage comes from the diode pack or another internal short like the...