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There are over 2 million views so far, so people are watching it! Might be good for you all that might have some of those in stock.
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Yes they have 2 interlocking nuts that hold the bearings in. It's good you got the hubs off! There are 35 spline axles out there. Getting the warn ones are very nice, I've got a few sets . Wonder if @cucvrus has any parts of the stock ones laying around you could fix the one you have and not...
I don't think you need anything but that kit for a Dana 60. Says 30 spline which I don't know if that's what is in there. You can pop one off and count just to make sure. I'd call and find out if you do need anything other than that kit. Just a touch curious why you want new ones.
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I just watched that! He got it in Chambersburg pa. I noticed his fuse mod wasn't done so I commented on it and told him to join here and get those parts figured out plus get his auto start kit too. I can't believe he got the fuel filter off that easy though!
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I've thought of making those lines out of steel with just a short piece of rubber hose on the end up top. Mine leached through the entire chunk from the top to the tank. We had crazy wind here last week had 35k people with no power. Some for 2 days.
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I use the basic military surplus one. I get them on eBay. They do just enough. Look for a battery cable end that unbolts but not from the battery if you can. Saves the battery terminals. Group 31s work fine BTW. Unhooking is absolutely ok.
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In theory there shouldn't be draw on the batteries when parked...black out switch off...but there are times when the alternator likes to do crazy stuff and pull a small draw and take out the batteries over a short period of time. You can pull the cables off but lead acid batteries discharge...
Yes it is and it does work and gives you a larger contact surface...but it can still weld...18 etc volts vs 24-29 volts is a massive jump in amps. The fix is keep your batteries charged...I run stock relay on all mine but also run the 6tm battery with a solar maintainer on the hood. I don't...
Yup...2 big wires with the 2 little ones. Just a point. Those melt as well if you're batteries are low in charge. Amps go up when volts drop and welding occurs. My 1009 had that with old batteries and I had to snap the wire off the 24 volt side to get the starter to stop. I put good batteries in...
No there's no filter in them stock at all but there's a bunch out there to fit a 3/8 hose. The booster has a check valve that's almost a pencil point that if it gets stuck can either give all the pressure or take it away.
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I'd test the 2 wire plug at the field before I'd jump wires to the battery. See what's there. That power steering is odd. Sounds like the hydro boost is bleeding off all the pressure. You put a filter on the return when you replaced everything? Could have some dirt in the check valve. I'd pop...
You can kill the ground and bury a switch under the dash...I don't like switches on power sides...to much possibility of failure.
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That's great news that you got it all together! One thing I forgot is now that you have a fresh tank you might want to change the box fuel filter now too. Have it all in good shape at one time.
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There needs to be a solid ground on the motor. You can run a separate wire to ground or clean off the mounting points of paint and such. I do a wire up to the bus bar right above it off a mounting bolt for the motor. It needs a decent sized wire since it can pull 20 amps on high which will...
Oooppps!! I missed it had a connection on the end! Yeah mine have that too and are not hooked to anything. The other blue wire coming out of the box is the starter relay wire that kicks the starter on. 2 of mine had that clipped and had a ford starter relay botched in them. I removed all that...
I think there's a pair on marketplace by me if I remember right. Pop your search south a touch and see if they're still there.
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I have the original stuff but threw a small 4 ton bottle jack in there too with a 1/4 inch chunk of steel to put under it. 1 is none 2 is one I guess.
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