Search results

Be sure it has the 24V valve heater... you will also need to source the 24v connector/pigtail to adapt it to your truck’s 24v heater supply... have you pulled apart your old one? They are really simple, and since you can access the media, it can be cleaned in a de-greaser solution and...

I don’t think it is fatal, as when it fails you loose HEUI pressure pretty quickly and the engine quits running:)

It’s the trucks Defibrillator...

The issue with these teflon hoses is their bend radius. Take a plastic drinking straw and try and bend it. The thin wall teflon liner behaves a lot like this and will want to collapse. The braided sheath helps to prevent this but it has limitations to about a 2” radius... because of the...

Bent 180 and zip-tied to the hydraulic lines is typical. Some may have a little vent cap thingy in them, but I believe mine is as you describe...

Yep, for the old style wet cells with removable caps. It basically was an electronic dipstick. If the probe tip touched electrolyte, the light lit up... newer sealed cells and agm’s made it obsolete...

The troop alarm is the same tone, it is just pulsed... I have heard sonalerts make weird tones when they are receiving reduced current/voltage. Got a wonky connection somewhere? Or the contacts on the air pressure sensors or it’s ground is going bad. I would start there, under the drivers...

Yes it does, and that strap is probably THE most important ground on the truck... basically it is the main neg path from frame to-from the batts as the engine and trans and exhaust are isolated on rubber mounts. Not sure how good a path is provided thru the engine... I recall a,no start issue...

Yea, that starter terminal looks pretty ugly...

Actually the shunt is mounted right beside the polarity box(toward the rear). I am sorry, I should have mentioned it before but wasnt thinking about it... The main Ground lead and strap run right under the starter...

Also check the instrument shunt conections(Under/inboard of air filter) The neg lead runs from the batts to the shunt, the other side of the shunt runs to the starter case. At that starter connection there is a ground strap that connects over to the left frame rail...

Thats weird... What does it measure at the alt when you are getting 14.5 and 17 at the batts? That totals 31.5, and shouldn’t really be possible, unless the regulator has issues...

You mean using this circuit/connector(j106) located inboard of the aircleaner? this connector connects into the rest of the truck via an intermediary p/j43 located in the front chassis somewhere. E is 24V from CB30. B is connected back to TB2(ground buss) under the PDP in the passenger dash...

Yep, standard automotive blade fuses will plug right in, that’s what I am using. the original config used 4 types of relays, 12 and 24v coils, 4 and 5 pin. You only need 5 pin relays in 12 and 24v, as they will work in place of the 4 pins. Mistakenly putting a 4 pin where a 5 pin should be...

There is a small vampire load from the 12v to the transmission... here are my two battery voltages when idling... 14.23/14.42... i have a solar panel, a simple buck converter set to float the 12v batt(the one with the vampire on it) to 13.2v when the sun is out, and an equalizer that holds...

Yea because of the variables, the only real accurate voltage measure of a battery SOC are the conditions listed in column 1, and then only after the battery has been setting an hour or more for the electrolyte levels to stabilize in the cells... i think you will probably find a bad connection...

The alt doesn’t know nothing about charge rate. Simple straight voltage regulation 14.1/28.2v. it should deliver this rain or shine, all day long regardless of load changes until the load is so great that it cannot maintain voltage and the voltage starts to fall away from that regulated...

You can tell the WTEC controller to re-calibrate the TPS(real easy using keypad and pedal), but as Suprman mentioned, you want to make sure the cable is moving the sensor correctly with pedal application.

Built-in work lights... I like it!

you could have a battery that is breaking down with current applied and loading the system Beyond limits. Since the 12v is low, I would suspect one of the outer 0-12v batteries. I would start by disconnecting 2 batteries at a time, one inner and one outer(Like opposite corners). And see what...