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The service brake (5/8") and spring brake (1/2" red) supply lines were connected up to the primary and secondary tanks. A double check valve is installed between the secondary tank and both supply lines. The 3/8" parking brake valve supply line is also connected here with a 3/8" air brake...

Moving on with more plumbing, I also removed the air pack and master cylinder. Now obsolete, they were in the way of progress. The MC bracket is useful in routing air tubing to the primary and secondary tanks and forward to the treadle valve fittings which will be on the firewall. I removed the...

I have had photographic equipment issues, so I am lacking in new posts. I now have it fixed so I am back on track. Nonetheless, I have been busy progressing through this job. I finished plumbing the air chambers on the rear axle. I installed 45º 3/8" elbows to route the hoses neatly inward and...

Thanks for the tip. Someone else had posted that same tip elsewhere on the site. I plan to throw them in my on-board tool box.

I set the clevis on the air chambers for optimum slack adjuster operation using special templates supplied by Meritor. The instructions are on page 15 and 16 in this technical manual... I went to install the premium Meritor automatic slack adjusters I had bought thinking it would be a...

Alright, I'm back. I kept forgetting to take my camera over to the storage yard to get progress pics, but I remebered today. Last weekend, with the help of my father-in-law, I was able to get the hubs/new drums assemblies and axles back on to truck. I only put the amidships axle's inner tires...

I am not going to elaborate on bearings and seals service (excellent write up here http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?57099-5-ton-rear-axle-seal-fix-procedure) in this thread, but I thought I would address the wiper ring (AKA speedy sleeve) service. I removed the old and installed four...

I took some air chamber mounting pics this afternoon to continue the end of my last post. I have highlighted the proper bolting orientation with the circle and arrow (Arlo Guthrie would be proud ;)).

Thanks! It's been quite the haul. Luckily those backing plate rivets are doneaua The plumbing will be tedious, but not hard. The front brakes will just be a swap with the drums/hubs being the only heavy part.

Continuing the air brake saga. Old brakes...off. New brakes...on. Ready for hubs, drums and axles to go back on. See the progress in posts 33-36 below... http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?140055-M809-series-(M818-Air-Brake-Retrofit/page4

Fourth, I installed the anchor pins using a light coating of anti-seize. The pins slide easily into their holes and will move freely back forth until the shoes are installed. The pins are locked into place once the brake shoes are set in place. I set the top shoe on the top anchor pin and let...

I finally got all the old backing plates plates off. That's 40, four-zero, 9/16" rivets drilled and reamed out! SO glad that's done! Anyway, moving right along! All four brake sets (spiders, s-cam tubes/brackets, s-cams, shoes, springs and air chambers) are now installed less the slack...

Later this afternoon, I cut the air chamber actuating rods to the proper length for my set up now that I have my automatic slack adjusters. I needed the clevis depth dimension for an accurate cut. Rather than get wordy about the task, I have reposted a Haldex worksheet that spells out this...

I have been working on removing the original backing plates. It has been slow going as I do not have a large industrial strength frame drill. I have drilled out two backing plates so far from the rear most axle. I have been using a 1/2" drill starting with a 3/16" pilot then working up by a...

Running bob-tailed, minimum, you will need a CDL Class B with NO air brake restriction and a medical card to operate legally in CA. A non-commercial Class B WILL NOT cover you.

Yeah, I dialed in that when I first found these pics a couple of weeks ago. Anything less than 90 is no bueno! I have the same push rod cutting instructions. Here...I have loaded them directly into the post. I've already marked the 90 degree point on my push rods. My auto slacks came in...

Here's length comparison of the old studs to the new. The old measure (from under the head) 2 13/16" and the new measure 3 3/8". The drums mount inboard to the hub flange. If slid on outboard they would not cover the shoes completely. So, sadly I won't be able to enjoy that convenience...

Another side note...the this particular drum/hub modification will NOT work with "flipped" hubs. The new brake drum has nothing to attach to in the flipped hub configuration.

With this kit you must use the existing hub. In it's original form, the m39-series and M809-series hub bolts to the drum via an adapter plate that bolts to the outer edge of the drum. You can see those hub bolts (they are the same pattern and size as that of the axle flange) which are just...

The Hannibal 8...again.