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They bend them all!!! I don't understand it either since they all have the same key and they have the slave cable to jump start them...mine didn't have keys or batteries like the other 10 that they had that month! They spared none from being bent.
It's been a bit since my last actual known repair but finally got the last 3 done today...I replaced the oil cooler lines which actually went very easy...the lines are not bent the same as stock so I'll have to make my own mount for the back of the engine...the other was replacing the driveshaft...
Yes that's what I wanted but I didn't think a 6.5 inch rim would work well with that...I literally just picked up a brand new Ford set last night...wish I would have known the originals were bent up before I bought new tires!
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The 3 little round thingies are capacitors that were hooked up to the wiper motor...that wire I'm not sure...I'm not sure where that's at!
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Mine has 16s on it... they're 6.5 wide...I put a 265/75 16 on them and they fit great...from what I've found there's a ford rim out there that is the same lug pattern but a bit wider, I think they're 7 inch...I do think that the one ton gm trucks in 16 inch will fit as well...this tire size was...
That tool can be great to hold the flywheel for sure....if you haven't used one then here's a tip...get someone to hold it while you torque the bolts...doing both is interesting at best with a fair warning that if the tool slips it turns that new sharp tooth flywheel into a knuckle removing saw...
I use por15 on all my bodywork I'm doing...the flywheel isn't really out in the elements to much though but it doesn't hurt to use it...it is a pretty big prep job but does work very well when done right...really if you have time to paint it why not.
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That makes sense...I am doing as much as I can avoiding the shipping containers of junk sitting in harbors out west...getting the one that is rebuilt looks like a old core redone...there's not much to replace in them on a direct drive...solenoid, brushes and a few bearings...maybe hunt down a...
You'd never know it until you tried to pop it in and that bracket didn't line up...either starter will work...you'd just have to change the bracket is all...I think the 28 is the better one though.
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Yes that's it! Good you have it...that's the bent style...should be a 27 starter then...the 28 uses the straight style...you know which the new starter is?
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The new one has the stud in it to use the front mount bracket brace...can't tell which one either is but if I remember right there's a 27 or 28 something part number related to them...one is a direct drive and one has some type of under gear drive I think...each one uses a different brace....as...
That looks like a nice one! For a guy who doesn't claim to know how to fix cars you're doing great...one thing with the starter there should be a bracket bolted to the front of the starter to the engine to help brace it...there's 2 different ones depending on which starter you get...other thing...
That's the 24 volt to 12 volt converter...if it's not hooked up then it's no big deal...it knocks 24 volt to 12 volt...I have one in the truck but the blazer one was removed long ago.
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If you're looking for parts find the TM section on this site for the M1009....there is a parts break down that gives you every part number for everything on it...google search out that part number and you should be able to find about anything NOS...or new not old!! I got a original gm balancer...
Give him a break...he's from the UK...they say stuff like fish n chips too...I'm sure if you said soda up the midwest of the US people would correct you and say POP!! lol just giving you a hard time.
You found the right place to get the set running and set up to go...there is all the information and people to help you do just that in one place...I can't say enough about it...one thought that I did with mine to move it, unless you are lifting it up high on a platform, I bought some basic...
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