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Thats a good one. The TL list in the A0 schematic ends at TL320... the A1 does have TL’s up into the 500’s, but I have only noticed them on the schematics I have, and have not seen a 501 or 502 specifically... things that make you go Hmmm... You may have to trace them by hand...

I think it would, the engine will be happier being able to reach and maintain its designed operating temp reliably. I am going to do it when I install my block heater. You don’t need another thermostat housing. It appears they extended the casting on the normal one into an elbow, so you simply...

They actually show that restrictor in the 24P manual. Even in place it will still move more heat than the engine can make down to the cooler and out to the trans. They did actually completely fix this issue... They did away with that bypass pipe entirely on the A1 and A1R and left the engine...

Your valve looks good, it may still be leaking though. You need to put pressure in on it’s inlet, cap the outlet then close the control solenoid and see if it is leaking Anywhere. If you are hearing air under the truck, You also need to feed air down toward the rest of the CTIS system and...

On a A0 with a 3116 Engine, not warming up is not unusual. They diverted all the bypass coolant down to the transmission cooler, so you have to warm up the transmission before the engine can warm up...

Yea, me too... Infinity, you need to read the transmission codes, and also see why it has a check engine light. It should still be starting out in 2nd gear in mode though...

They start in 2nd and go to 7th. When you turn on the switch the control should show N N When you select D it should show 7 2 after it shifts into gear. So holding both up and down arrows simultaneously showed no error codes in D1-D5... A possibility is that the throttle is not rotating...

The wheels all get fed air equally, so one tire not getting air indicates an issue with that one wheel alone. First check I would make is to insure the banjo bolt where the air line on the wheel connects to the hollow hub supply, is indeed a hollow banjo bolt with a cross hole. If a regular...

one weird thing? You got all kinds of weird things going on. the air gauges on the left are brake pressure. The rear is main and the front is secondary brake system pressure. All the gauges get fed 24V from CB77. In the case of the air brake gauges, the 24v passthru them down to the air...

Do you have oil pressure above 15 PSI on the gauge? If so you probably have a bad/shorted oil pressure switch...

Cool! The having to tap has always been a prelude to a complete failure in my experience. I would pull it and clean it out and re-lube it. You need a support strap/hoist to get this one in and out, but the starters themselves are not hard to work on...

Yep, tapping may re-distribute the carbon or otherwise restore the current pathway thru the motor windings. But that has only been a tmep fix in my experience and the starter still needs to be pulled and inspected, cleaned and bushings lubed. I guess you should also try and barr the engine over...

Well thats easy. If those 3 are clicking the start circuit sounds OK. Sounds like you may have an internal short in the starter since you got a spark shorting the starter terminals on the solenoid with no spin. What does the 24v at the battery do when you try to start it. I would say you...

exactly what is going click? Start Relay in the power panel, aux start relay on the drivers frame rail, Starter solenoid, all of the above? what are the 12 and 24 volt test points in the power panel measuring WHILE you are pressing the start button?

What Geo said, the transfer case and trans use same oil so if trans oil is o k, somis the trans case. the oil light in the dash is driven by the 15 PSI oil pressure switch which is located by the oil pressure gauge sender down on the left side of the engine block. if the light isn’t going...

Quick check, open all the tank drains and drain all the air. Is the park brake set now as no air = spring park brake application. Are the front glad-hands vented. If not, air from a leaking 2way or supply check-valve will be trapped in the red emer line and be applied to the park brake system...

That primary filter assembly is on the suction side of the lift pump, it is never under pressure... you must pump,the fuel/water out...

Yep, except ours don’t have the vent screw/bolt seen to the right of the primer ring and mentioned in the instructions...

No, you have to pump the water and fuel out with the primer. If you look at the stainless ring around the primer bulb, there are instructions printed there. Opening the drain is also a way to check if your flapper bypass check valve above the filter(underside of filter boss) is sealing. If...

The PTO hydraulic system reservoir is 27 gallons... lots of cooling and maybe enough capacity to finish a critical task with a bad leak... way overkill for what it does on these trucks.