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Ok here's the good news...got the switch wired up to the genset yesterday and it worked perfect...the switch was expensive but no more than an automatic one out there but I am very happy with the working result. My slight problem, which could turn into something bad, is load...my winter load is...
That sounds like a blast...I read a bunch of your builds and stories...showed my son and he's definitely wanting to check out the toy store...I got him the blazer so he can learn how to do things on his own...he's 14 working on paying it off!! The tailgate I have is in pretty good shape...not...
I got a van from gov planet on September 4th and got the title December 4th....took the SF97 to a notary and got the title in 4 days....I never thought I'd see the day that Penndot is that fast...It was a postal van ....the date it was signed was a month before I got it ....crazy.
So I finally got the transfer switch mounted....probably the longest hookup ever!!! I found a guy that did the leg work for the code stuff and is going to hook up the wires to the switch and make sure the white and ground wires are not on the same mount in the fuse box. I guess they have to...
I'm in York not to far away...I'll keep you in mind if I need a diff...I do need a rear window crank if you have one of those! My tailgate is ok but I can't move the window so I took it all apart and found the crank teeth shot.
Man I need one of those!! Got the 86 blazer ..spring sprung and the teeth eaten gone!!! What's the protocol on getting it!!
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I would think getting the lines to prime with fuel and keep it that way may be an issue,,,maybe...is there a pump in the lower tank to push it up into the filter? I know it may help keeping prime as well since you can get a basic 12 volt pump that has a check valve in it as well...if I read...
Mine does exactly the same thing...I've gotten to the point if I unhook the cr2 diode off the switch it will stay up but won't make power since it needs to go through the switch to get back to the regulator...I tried to zap the field coil on pins 8 n 9 which didn't work or I did the wrong...
So I finally got the manual switch approved to finish the hookup of this generator...been a good bit of back and forth to get to this point! The switch box is heavy aluminum and pretty big...I put a roll of masking tape in the one pic to show scale...it is a 3 position switch...Painted the...
Got the wire run nice...now for the hookup...trying to find a box I can bolt to the genset that has the 1 1/4 diameter hole for the wires to run in to be hooked up.
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So it's been a bit so I thought I'd update on the wiring install...I have about 140 feet from the genset to the switch on the house...rented a ditch digger and have that part ready to bury the wire...I bought 2 gauge 3 wire feed with a 4 gauge ground in aluminum...still have to find the shut off...
Ok so if you put the switch down it won't turn over with the outside start switch and no fuel pump clicking? I just checked my push button emergency shut off switch...with it pushed in the off position there's no con...with it pulled out running there is...so those 2 wires coming out where the...
I didn't see the pics in the original post...the dead switch has to be in the normal position...then you should hear the fuel pump clicking once you turn the main switch to start...I'd be curious too that the shut off push button switch is missing...not sure if that will run without it.
Sent...
Did you buy it not running like mothballed or in storage mode? If so you gotta get the deisal purged of air before it'll start...I'm assuming it turns over normally...I got mine that way and it took a little play time to get it purged.
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Ok let me take the cap off and see if I can get a good pic of where the wires go. As far as parts go you can go through the Dewey supplier to get parts...I did that to find what I needed when I got mine....I was missing the oil pressure sensor and a few other small things....really helped at...