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you could have a weak relay or a high resistance connection associated with K1 or K24. Also insure that K1 and K24 are both 12v coil relays. A 24v coils drop-out voltage may be very near the normal voltage sag of the batteries/electrical system when cranking the engine And would interrupt the...

No advantage, it is not a very significant difference... it is probably just a typo in the documentation...:)

Synthetic will help crank load And speed. You have glow-plugs though right?

Yea, I should have said coolant. The block will not really feel that warm. you might be able to see some change on the block with an IR as compared to say the temperature of the axle. Geopen brought up a good point 1-1.5KW pulls a fair bit of current. Line and connector loss can really knock...

Heating the oil pan isn’t a bad idea, warm oil lifts and pumps easier. Any warm fuel in the head starts getting pumped away as soon as you start cranking the engine. heating the Secondary fuel filter will help keep the fuel Supply to the injectors warm for an easier initial start. I don’t like...

The block heater is the easiest to get right. Inline heaters, unless they have a built in pump require a little more thought to get them to thermo-siphon properly to get the heat thru the entire block/head. I usually install them between a block drain on one end of the block to a port on the...

Yes. The evaporator and condenser need to match the compressor and environment. You can mount the condenser on the back or top of the cab, but because the cab needs to tilt that adds a lot of line, volume and complexity to the system. Down in front of the radiator is the simplest install...

And a condenser and fans...

Blind spot mirror? Convex mirror? Crossing mirror?

Or strip the rubber off and replace with heat shrink...

Well you may hear relays clicking, but they have nothing to do with CTIS. No controller, no CTIS function. The controller needs to close a valve and add some air at the PCU to “connect” all the tires together By opening the wheel valves. Without a controller this cannot Happen... so fill...

A service manual that has the controller internal circuit schematics? Please provide a link to said item... in fact maybe you just better go Ahead and buy it, because if such an animal exists, it is probably the only place you are going to find it...

The Wet tank is where the governor samples air pressure rof control. Yes it is ok to start and run with the cab tilted, just be careful with the door if you have to open them so they dont over-extend and do damage...

I would suspect that is proprietary information...

Sounds like the governor is not unloading... here is a way to check wet tank pressure without connecting a gauge, just hold the rubber point against the tank drain and open the valve... have you tried adjusting the governor?

I have seen interconnect diagrams for the system, but have not seen any Schematics for the Electronic Control Unit itself...

Yea, standard automotive blade fuses will fit where the circuit breakers are located...

Looks like it caught and contained some water... Bummer:(

what you opened is the Vehicle Interface Module.. The schematic only shows 5 contacts/relays being used...

Thats not a TCU, that is the Vehicle Interface Module(VIM)... This is used on a WTEC2(Mid98 and earlier) and the actual TCU is over underneath the keypad control... After mid 98 they started using the WTEC3 which did away with the VIM and started putting the TCU where the VIM was located under...