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since you will have to remove the intake anyway (maybe) get a small amgnet on a wire, open the intake valve, your choice which one, you know it isn't 1 or 6, and fish around.

remove ip gear to eliminate that since it turns at crank speed. make sure it is not some external thing. best guess is that something was in a port and fell into cylinder when valve opened. time to remove head. since it has not run you should be able to reuse the head gasket. sucks, but worse...

because any is too much? does it become better at 50 to 60? anything mechanical would only get worse with speed, tires anything is possible.

there is just no demand. i do have bearing sets, longer rollers for the front of the mainshaft where it is supported by the input shaft and alloy keys. 2nd gear can just be drilled with a carbide drill, specs on website. tom

and i'll bet he is not using the old poor flowing heads we have. we just need 4 valve heads for at least 80 hp

Generator Set, Skid Mounted, Tactical Quiet 60 kW 50/60 Hz wasn't that one pretty well stripped out?

i bought a genuine oil seal at the local injection shop for $6

if you use the correct seals, it will leak and hold water and rust. in 2006 i used black body seam sealer and it is still in perfect condition and doesn't hold water so no rust issue. if it ever needs to come off, a windshield knife should do it.

this is a common myth. if you abuse anything it will break. if you put the parking brake on and rev it up, dump the clutch the main shaft will twist off. this is not a shortcoming of the trans.

that depends on your skill level. the 3053 is an extremely easy trans to OH, probably the hardest thing is to remove the rear bearing on the mainshaft, for that you really need a small puller. i usually then polish the shaft down to it being a neat fit as stock it is a .0012 tight fit and this...

have you seen the size of the 6000 series from a 5 ton? twice the size, will only fit with a V8 (since it is shorter) and raising the cab 3" off the frame. been there. you can break the 3053 in a deuce, just abuse it for a while. but to your question, no, i don't recall anyone actually having...

what is the problem? many things are easy to fix on the spot rather than swap a trans.

do not use mild steel

contact me thru my website, i have all those parts in stock, or call me, the number is there also.

certainly sounds like a worn HH

as you probably know the first number in spicer is the torque rating of the trans, so it was designed for 300 ft lbs. i know that is not what you want to know, but this trans has been put behind several cat 3208 at nearly 600 ft lbs and unless abused has not broken. one member has it behind a...

it's the same flasher and that fix does not stand the scrutiny from an electrical view. in other words it just happened by chance that the flasher started working, there is simply no way the indicator bulb has any bearing on the function of the system. with respect to truck lite, it's very...

you just have a bad flasher.

what is wrong with the stock one, it is electronic and flashes at the same rate regardless of load and will even work fine with 12 volts.

http://www.kraftpower.com/products/diesel-engines/lister-petter/