Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Your engine will be completely happy with 15W40 oil. It'll be OK with 30W (OE30) as well. It was designed to use OE30, but the 15W40 diesel rated oils in the LO are better in every respect and are much nicer to the starter motor and offer better lubricity in cold weather.
The LOs for my...
Actually, when you turn the master switch to 'run' it should retract then. It should stay retracted in 'start.' This is different than on the MEP-002A/003A which won't retract the plunger in 'run' unless there's OK oil pressure and head temperature. On the MEP-016B it's all about the float...
Concur on massive amounts of prelube. Make sure you get all the rockers. I'd probably put a little of something like EP gear lube down the plug holes to lube the rings (let's hope the inhibitor did what it was supposed to do). I'm guessing there's some way to spin the oil pump without turning...
Brazing would work fine, but you have to get the metal awfully hot (red) to do it. Soldering is just as good for a fuel tank and a lot less likely to make a mess.
It's a plunger solenoid that pushes the IP speed control arm to spring-loaded full-closed by default. It has to retract in order for the engine to run. The solenoid is wired through a relay to a low fuel level reed switch in the fuel tank. It takes most of a gallon of fuel to make the float...
I've soldered fuel and kerosene tanks as well. Scuff the area with the hole(s) down to bare metal and get it fairly rough. Then apply acid flux, get it good and hot (one of those big soldering coppers used for copper gutters works well), and apply solder. If it didn't tin, you didn't get the...
If you're talking about doing a 12V glow plug conversion on an MEP-002/003, I wouldn't bother with a DC/DC converter. Just add up the resistances of all the 12V stuff in the circuit and then put in a dropping resistor to get rated current with B+ = 24V. Plain old V=IR stuff.
An even easier...
Another question: did you verify that the glow plug still works? Mine's a really cold-blooded beast and wants some heat on the glow plug if it has been sitting for more than about 15 minutes even if the engine is warm.
That'd be the way I'd go unless there was some need to retain original appearance. The optics are much better and the LEDs are wired through their own dropping resistors so a partial failure doesn't take out the whole light.
And for those of you who came in late: there are also significant...
As Derrickl112 pointed out, there's still a basic problem with the 'flat LED' style - there's no reflector mounted in the housing to point all the light from the LEDs mounted longitudinally at the lens. I'd probably mask the socket then spray the inside of the housing with white or silver paint...
I see it has an alternator conversion. Looks like it's in pretty decent shape. I don't think I would 'militarize' it with M38s being relatively common - a good condition uncut 1947 CJ3 is not worthless either, and it is also a historical vehicle worthy of care.
of course, if the paint is shot...
You've run up against a common problem with the LED replacements. The original lights were designed around a filament that emits light at a wide variety of angles. The Fresnel lens is optimized to gather the light and point it all (more or less) straight out the back of the unit. LEDs, by...
If it makes you feel any better, I thought the float switch on my MEP-002A was broken when I got it for the same reason. Careful examination of the plumbing and wiring diagrams clued me in...
Wouldn't it be nice if we could get the ones from the '70s through the '90s digitized? They're all public domain, but they fall in the black hole in between the university library collection and LOGSA. If anybody has sacrificial copies, I'd be willing to feed them through the sheetfed scanner...
FYI: you CAN overcool trans fluid. That's why most cars (lightly loaded transmissions) use a cooler in a radiator side tank, so that the cooler can warm up the trans fluid if it's too cold. You need some kind of thermostat in the cooler loop.
Now the good news: Find any junkyard with a dead...
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!