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Locking the center does cause the driverain to bind - even on loose surfaces - rocks, etc - the axle will stll bind since it has no differentiation so the driveshafts are going to unload when the binding overcomes the friction - there will be *less* friction on loose rocks but not zero so it's...

Had one lock out hard and didn't have the time to wait for it to possibly bleed down and it probably would not have bled down since the fluid was basically chunky mud. So if there's a tire on there, pull the shrader core and deflate it. This will give better access to the cotter pins to remove...

That diag port usually has a cap on a chain covering it for use. That is a CANBUS and diagnostic port that is not used on the FMTV A1's. It can be hooked into the J1939 and the VR will report alternator RPM, temperature, both voltage outputs, load percentage, and likely a few more things that...

There is no voltage regulator wiring to "figure out" - it's just the E ring terminal that gets the K11 relay signal to start the alternator. Same as the 100. The wiring between the two is absolutely identical. RPM is no issue. The alternator makes it's rated power by the time the engine is at...

Winch hydraulic filter, and armored cab hydraulic lift system filter I believe.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-28600-Disc-Brake-Piston/dp/B0002SQUFY If you carefully file pins on the side where they are D-shaped they can be contoured to fit in the intake valve cages. Just be careful that the force is being applied uniformly so you don't crack the cages. I've done like 5 or 6...

The truck itself draws very little power so I wouldn't expect it to be an issue at at the moment. It WILL present to you when the temp drops if you have a grid heater - those draw something like 90 amps at 28v and will load the cold alternator and belt that are both ~15 degrees and the belts...

The kit slings the alternator out further to get more belt wrap. The 260 and 300 when loaded can barely operate without belt slip as it is. Having the alt too close to the engine reduces wrap on the pulley and thus power transfer. They already slip when heavily loaded, or when the belt is old...

Ah yes the 1224 is the FMTV 260A dual-volt. A single voltage 260 would be significantly smaller and likely easier to fit.

PCU vent is on the side of the PCU. Earlier models have the vent routed to behind the grill. Newer models have it just vented under the dash. You should rebuild the PCU.

Nope. You just need new wheel valve diaphragms. That's what they do when they get old and hard. They get progressively worse at holding pressure and the controller will keep trying - it will fault out after 10 tries. It's inflating but the wheel valves don't hold pressure so when it waits one...

Being you have a 3116 truck - have you gone through the TPS adjustment procedure? And as for revving it - with ECO hubs and the small engine..... That may be what you need to do.

LZ dropped the interior wall temps in my 1079 van by 20 degrees F before/after and that's testing it in 90+ degree temps heat soaking in the sun all day. That stuff WORKS. And the sound deadening adds mass which stops sound propagation by making the surfaces harder to accelerate.

I took a video of mine and the file was corrupted. Have to try again. Don't use my go-pro that often.

Forget all that. Just use the two Lizard Skin products for insulation and sound. Spray on. Done. All that other stuff will take 10x the labor and won't work any better. Probably won't work as well since a spray can get in places like up against seams and corners and through holes in the...

The Vee belts used on the older trucks are "A" series belts. A: 1/2" B: 21/32" C: 7/8" They are probably worn and narrower than 1/2"

It still won't be powerful enough. The factory unit is 30k BTU for good reason. Smart people are great at justifying dumb things they spent money and time on and that they have no good real world performance comparison for. Usually they just assume that's as good as it gets and it's a coupe...

I have yet to pay more than $650 for a Niehoff of any size. It's all about the surplus, the search, the legwork, the contacts, and horse trading. And in any case as I pointed out you can complete the mission without the thing - redundancy is key. There's plenty of time to find a replacement when...

There's no wiring changes AT ALL for the 260A. The chassis hookups are just the ring terminals on the case and the ring terminals for the VR studs which are the same. One is the E terminal that turns the alternator on, and the other is the AC terminal that runs to the LBCD. None of the cannon...

Stick with the 260. What year is your truck? The 260 requires the older trucks to change the mounting of the shock as they have the mounting slung a little farther out. If you cut the huck bolts and make two copies of the spacer plate behind the shock mount out of 1/2" plate you can bolt the...