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Belt? Worst case, put the loader in float and drive in Reverse to get home.

Okay, now I understand why it won't start. Load tested the batteries and the two "end ones" (positive and negative for 24 V) failed miserably. Not sure I've ever had a battery make the needle go to zero that quickly. Oh well. Now the question is; what happened to those two? Connected a 24 V...

Got the batteries to a full charge today, but was running out of daylight by the time I was able to get to this issue. Bypassed doing the load test and tried starting it. Everything looked good on the dash, and after turning on the ignition. Hitting "start" made it sound like low batteries and...

Okay, this has me wondering. The batteries in this 936 have always impressed me, staying at around 28 volts for months. Figuring that they deserved some attention after some two years I added water in most cells, as needed, then had them on a solar charger for several days, combined with...

Alright, ready to install. With some luck it'll even work.

Put the lid and base on top of the furnace for tonight, to hopefully cure the paint quicker. As you can see, I didn't spend any time making it look good, but it should work. Drainage holes by the connector small enough to keep insects out, but should be enough to vent the interior and avoid the...

Thanks! I ended up doing the very same thing (in here waiting for the liquid electrical tape on the new wiring to dry) hoping it'd work. Now I'm confident it will. One thing I did differently was to modify the box a bit. basically cut the end of the lid where the connector goes off of the box...

Alright, resurrecting an oldie here as I'm not sure what's the least dumb thing to do next. M936 A1 with ABS (or at least the sticker) that one day had a completely unresponsive dash when turning that battery switch on. It clicks under the hood, lights work, etc., but dead dash. Bonked the box...

My guess is brass, like most older radiators.

I doubt that they are, but I can go scrape some paint off of one tomorrow and find out.

Solder up the hole and hope there won't be too many other leaks?

Bring one each of the old ones to NAPA?

The normal recommended 50/50 mix works great. Just don't put it in a handy old style oil can like I did. It has a crimp on the bottom, which works well with the regular oil it was intended for, but the acetone/ATF mix crept through that crimp. Yes, it's that good of a penetrant.

I would avoid heating anything and instead put a few drops of acetone/ATF on the threads and let it work - over a few days. My 1-inch hydraulic hydraulic impact , good for about 2,500 ft .-lbs., would likely remove the nuts, but together with the studs. And overall I've had much better...

I would think so. Have had vehicles that only revved to under 5,000 and the only filtration they had was a centrifugal filter. In those it was built into the crankshaft pulley.

Don't overlook that both batteries should ideally have come off the production line one after the other. In other words, never replace just one in a dual (or more) battery application.

Ideally you should charge with only a few amps for a couple of days, then up the amperage. Of course, most smart chargers/maintainers won't activate when the voltage is too low, but can be tricked into charging by hooking up a good battery in parallel for 15-20 minutes.

Hmm. The compressor is direct driven and always runs when the engine is. Or should. Either way, nothing you did with the wiring could impact the function of the compressor. I'd guess that the compressor does pump air, but it doesn't get to the tanks anymore. Is the regulator flowing air?

Speaking of LEDs. In the past couple of days I've been working on getting the lighting functional on the FLUs. One had a dim work light, turned out to be resistance in the head/work light switch. But the first one I bought had nothing...other than power to the work lights. Disgusting, really...

Well, apparently there is. Even Amazon has them, $8.69 for a 10-pack.