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You'll love the impacts. Especially the 1" when removing the loader (but I would still start soaking the threads with acetone and ATF a couple of days ahead of time). You might find both new and used tools on eBay. I did.

No need to cut the fenders. Even thin tire chains will create the necessary clearance withing a day or two.

Not to be mean, but are those before or after pictures? (Sorry, couldn't resist)

I do have to give those Toyo M55s some extra credit. They've been on there for about 20 years and still look like they could be a year old, despite our brutal UV. And the thread is in great shape, except for where the tire chains have left some marks. Needless to say, it doesn't get driven on...

Not quite. They're 255/85R16 M55s.

It does indeed affect the suspension on my Ram 3500 DRW quite a bit. But it's not so much that the trailer is heavy (just over 10,000 lbs. as I recall) as that the rear 20 feet are empty space. Most of the weight is in the living quarters up front. With the axles centered under the garage...

It's a toy hauler. There's a 20-foot garage in the back. Over 4K weight on the coupler (by how much I don't know), so the M1008 goes down to about two inches from the bump stops.

I don't drive it on the roads much. It's primarily used as a tug.

That reminds me...I should install some kind of taillights on the M1008.

I might have stuck with 10 weight oil, too, had it been readily available and affordable. Also, it just made sense to me to use hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic systems, especially since I don't need to standardize things to the extent the military does.

I run AW 32 from NAPA in the hydraulic systems. The rest I don't remember. It's in the log books, though, and seems to work.

To me, the HMMH is a sports car compared to the SEE.

Very nice! I would just lower the rpms, a lot, especially when latching the backhoe. If you do it at 800-1,000 rpm it'll be much less violent.

You can put a stick or a piece of tubing in there to find out.

I noticed that mount in the photos posted earlier, and wondered if there was room to shift with a rifle in there. The base is towards the rear wall, by the way. Sure haven't seen one in a FLU before.

On my FLUs the switches have always worked with the hand throttle low enough that the engines barely stay running. And as I recall, the high idle switch should take the RPM to about 1,800 - in other words, lower than what you're about to test with.

Nice! Do take the time to clean up all exposed cylinder rods before playing with the loader or backhoe. Many has had to replace cylinder seals that were ruined by dirt or paint.

A man has to know his limits, they say.

I can relate. These things are fun, and there's a lot to learn. I love learning.

I get the occasional email from him, but he's definitely not active here anymore.