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Actually, the 32-footer is a bit better equipped, except for the hydraulic jacks. It also has a full Blackwood deck. Maybe something else, too, that I can't remember.

A new one with the same options is supposedly about $36K now. If you can find one for 22, grab it and run. When searching for a longer one about a month and half ago I couldn't even find one with air suspension, disc brakes, and the hydraulic dovetail. So I ordered a different brand, this time...

According to the dealer I bought it from it's worth about $30K. But he told me that about a month ago so it may be $32K now, the way trailer prices are going.

Sorry to hear that. Three guys I know has had their houses etc. burn down within the past several months. Mine burnt down a couple of years ago, but thankfully after I sold it. If you're "rebuilding" things other than the house, that 32-foot trailer will be for sale soon as I've ordered a new...

No need for waiting. Find one, go get it. Some disassembly may be required.

Nationwide searches are our friend. I picked mine up some 1,300 miles from here.

I don't think the parts would be particularly expensive, but you'd likely be disappointed with the resulting performance. For example. my snowblower (a low flow version) is technically within spec for the FLU's hydraulics, and it worked. But...to keep the engine turning at a high enough rpm to...

As you work your way through the thread you'll come across the pressure and flow rates for the two systems. At that point you'll abandon any thoughts of using the front one - other than for the loader and the tools it's designed for. Heck, it doesn't even run the loader very well.

You won't be able to run anything meaningful off the front hydraulics. I ran a snowblower off of the rear hydraulics for a few years, but if I did it again I'd put valves in the circuits instead of having to switch the quick disconnects for the backhoe twice a year.

Thinking more about it, I'm no sure I've ever tried the wipers before.

Today I wanted to use the SEE that gave me all kinds of grief (fuel system, primarily) when I first got it. After it sitting for maybe three months, including in -22 temps, I didn't really know what to expect. Well, it started up instantly - once I remembered that I have to push in the switch...

As I recall, the line comes from the top of the axle housing, then the rubber portion goes to the backing plate. Much like a typical brake hose.

That makes two of us.

If so, put a valve in the line so you can turn the air on when/if you want to pressurize the axles.

Hydrostatic drive is the only other version I've even come across, but that doesn't mean others don't exist. And if you want to confuse a typical car driver, have them drive an MB 4/94 with the working gear option. There really isn't room for any more levers between the seats on those.

I remember that. Sort of. Also that the ride and drive was among the scariest.

That may not be the officially approved method, but that's how I connected them. And it worked. That long thread is called "SEE, HMMH, and HME owners group", or something close to that. Most everything FLU related has been covered in that one, sometimes repeatedly. Be prepared to spend some...

You really can't use anything but the OE style plastic lines , or rubber hose, I suppose. Of course, now I can't remember if anything was different on the banjo fittings, but I doubt it. Anyway, I just heated the plastic up a bit and pushed it onto the fittings. It may have been described in...

I didn't need or use any special tools. Just replaced loose or questionable lines as needed. That SEE will be expensive for you if you don't work on it yourself, and without throwing parts at it.

What's a diesel mechanic going to do to the fuel lines that you couldn't?