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It's interesting how the popular thing is having a camper that is isolated from the frame with pivots or springs. Obviously this one is hard connected. Seems if you have a weak habitat you may want to isolate but if rigid, bolt that sucker to the frame.
Edit: it's interesting to see the frame...
Yes. The 2:1 ratio. While rpm makes a difference, the effect of braking is exactly 1/2 half what it was before at any given rpm (ignoring gear efficiency)
Mine is a 2007 and all 6 had a fair amount of corrosion, but they cleaned up really nicely. I was only having one with a leak down issue but I would rebuild all of them.
They are really pretty easy.
Oddly, mine is an 07 with 1900(supposedly) miles and I do get detectable play at the joints. It's not much but it's there. I already have the boots themselves.
Searched all the threads I can find on this topic but couldn't find any part numbers for replacing these? Seems the standard is to find a NOS entire link but was hoping someone had found civilian replacement part #?
I do have the one with replaceable joints on both ends.
Had a leak from my front CTIS fill line. After looking around for replacement lines and only finding new old stock that may be 20 years old... I just decided to replace everything with McMaster-Car equipment. Now I've got push connects directly to the connectors with polyurethane lines. System...
Took off the braces that someone added due to a tweak in the frame. Frame is pretty straight, although you can see a wave if you look down the length of it. These braces that were added are grade school level. They obviously drilled holes while the brace was in place and there are huge amounts...
I purchased my aluminum door handle with rubber covers on eBay for $8 each, I have an FDM printer but there's no way it makes sense at that price and durability level.
Regarding the oil in the amphenol connector. I don't have proof but I've heard many times that oil can get into the wires and capillary from one spot to the other. So it may not be the Amphenol that's bad but it could have been one of the plugs bathed in oil that allowed a leak path.
Checking CTIS seal leak rate into the axle breathers. Took about six cycles to fill up one glove and about 10 for the other. I'm really not too concerned about that level of leak.
Had a few arrivals today! Went to a local place looking for a shipping container and the guy happened to already have one fully insulated floor included, with 2 in of closed cell spray foam. Also did a really nice job installing a sliding door. Was planning on doing the insulation myself but...
Did the "listen test" per the TM (during inflate, with the gear hub fill plug off, listen for air leak) for CTIS hub seal leaks, found one on driver right front. Actually went pretty well that's to some YouTube videos. Didn't shim gears since my ECO hubs should be arriving today!
I guess someone thought CTIS bolts are supposed to be torqued like wheel nuts.
This filled the stud threads and was able to get most of it out but wouldn't take a bolt smoothly. Verified the bolt size is 3/8 NPS -national pipe straight (basically the same as 3/8 NPT-national pipe taper, except a...
Shouldn't be too thirsty as I drive the thing every couple days, battery voltage was showing what it normally does per the inaccurate gauges. So there's not some kind of interlock for the air inlet heater? I haven't looked into how much current that thing draws but since I have a 100 amp...
I was noticing something on my a1r about alternator, while the air inlet heater was on, it was not charging (orange lights flashing on regulator). When the heater turned off it engaged the alternator.
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