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Wow, they sure did melt. Good luck with your project, look forward to seeing more pictures as you progress. If you end up with extra parts I'm sure some of us goat owners, including myself would be glad to purchase them to help fund the "keeper".

Thanks for posting, we need some good advice from a veteran goat owner/mechanic.

More parts progress, blackout taillights, instrument spacer and wiper motors. The spacer was a challenge as it was in the path of the crunch monster.

There have been 2 for sale on the big E for several months, 5500-7500 with no bids, running original no spares near you. I don't know how you would value a re-power, have never seen one for sale. Plenty of us including me would be interested in the spares but that doesn't sound like an option...

Mark, I would post to this forum as well http://pub40.bravenet.com/forum/static/show.php?usernum=3407651264&frmid=150&msgid=772830&cmd=show

Sounds like positive results.

My boss on the engine had a two line number, first line is 5033-6299, second line reads 3D-68963. Also found this, part number is the same the TM calls for, a bit pricey though. http://store.reliableindustries.com/engine-parts/3038144-thermostat-assy-3-53-170-deg-opening-temp/

I talked with a friend who worked in the paint shop in Limestone and he said they no longer have the contract to refurb and they are pretty much done. If you want any info don't drag your feet.

Thanks for posting those pictures, makes my project seem so much easier! I would like to know, given the time frame he said he got them, how he got so many whole units during the de-mill required era. Look to be ambulance models with the insulated covers. Any thing can be restored and brought...

It seems the N50 is the choice for replacement.

My 3-53 is a bit stuck from sitting for 15 years so I pulled the injectors to pour some oil in. They are marked M65, the rack's on them are pretty well stuck so I figure I may replace them while they are out. I have read that replacing them with an N50 is the best option, opinions please. Thanks

Another member here proposed installing one of the red dot military ac units on the hard top roof. Seems to be the easiest solution.

Could not let Mark have all the fun so I pulled my radiator as well, will send it out for a good clean and leak check. Also pulled the accelerator pedal and freed it up so it pivots easily. Removed the clutch cross shaft and cleaned it as well, it was quite gummy with old grease.

Last few days I have been working on replacing the front main wiring harness. Mine was pretty tore up during the de mill crunch. I decided to splice it just ahead of the transfer case. It was 14 wires, I did not cut the main power cable as it was fine. I used seamless butt connectors and...

I am new to this engine so I can't be of much help with this problem. I did purchase a injector timing gage from a outfit who claims to be the authority on these engines. Give Stephen a call @ 504.362.2371 and see what he says, probably a good source for the thermostat as well. It looks like...

Thermostat is 3038144, make sure the tensioner spring is working on the water pump pulley, I sprayed mine with some kroil to loosen it up, the TM also mentions this. Spray oil right on the spring and let it soak in.

With my passenger seat out and center console out you have access to the oil canister, might want to try that.

When you put it back in with the grease turn the engine over slow and keep pushing the rod in, make a full revolution and make sure the rod is in as far as it will go. If not it will be hard to get the pump back in.

Thanks Andy, I will be in touch. I managed to get the steering box(thanks Mark)in today. Getting the main spline to line up was tricky, had to enlist help but it's all in and steering nice. I made a gasket for the top of the box out of a sheet of rubber, not sure what the original was made...

I have been away for a week so work on the goat has been slow. Received a NOS windshield yesterday(thanks Bill) and set it on today. I noticed it was rocking in the center, the corner of the hinge was hitting on the dash so I had to grind a bevel on it for clearance. Also got an original -10...