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Sure sounds like a start box to me.
Have you removed all the silicone globs that are covering all the cables and wiring connectors and cleaned all said connections? Under all that silicone is corrosion
You might have to twist and push it back. It may have come out of the transfer case drive. There is a kind of nylon socket on the speedo end that can get "dislocated" and stick out too far.
Add a signature line to your profile that has the year/model number of your truck.
The part numbers can be found in the -24P TMs
This is out of the earlier truck manual
You dont need to jack it up.
You do need a helper though.
There is plenty of ground clearance to slide underneath.
CHOCK YOUR WHEELS!
Helper in the cab to hold/turn the 4 screws that attach the shifter assembly. Remove the two cotter pins to detach the shift linkages. Disconnect the...
Your location was where the original electric valve was. Fine spot for the actuating wire to reach it but not ideal if you were going to use the cable actuated unit. Then you would need to mount it as in my pics. Your placement is probably best for using the manual handle you went with.
Adjustment is done while the cable knob is pushed in. Slide cable sheath to the left till the arm hits the lower side of the stop. Tighten clamp. Now when you pull the heat knob out it will open the water valve till it hits the upper side of the stop. Notice the "OFF" and "ON" lettering on this...
That valve should be turned 180 degrees and mounted on the heater side of that elbow to be oriented properly and to accept the cable correctly. The coolant to the valve/heater should be coming from the crossover assembly (that has the thermostat housing). The coolant from the heater returns to...
I have my original metal cable actuated valve and kept it while I retrofitted my truck to the latest AC system. Just got it charged up today and it blows cold. I checked the valve visually before reinstalling it and after installing it I function tested it to see if it fully blocked hot water...
Yeah almost as important as the fluid changes is removing the shifter assembly completely and emptying that bag full of dirt that surrounds it. Never seen one that wasnt nastier than a shopvac.
While its out on your bench you should be able to find the reason for your problem.
If you are...
If you find some for sale make sure its a LH and RH. They are on average $200 each. First set i bought had two RH! I didnt find a LH for two years.
They usually have the part numbers and L and R stamped on them
4pcs White LED BA9S *Reverse Polarity* bayonet bulbs | eBay
Something about how the indicator flasher works in the turn signal circuit in opposition to flashing signal. An incandescent bulb works regardless of polarity. LEDs tend to be polarity sensitive and wont work in the hmmwv lever...
Yours should have had a self-cancelling type lever assembly.
There is an LED bulb for the indicator that is much brighter. It needs to be a special BA9S reverse polarity bulb in order to work though.
Thats just a scannable inventory type tag. It has your unit's serial number.
My rebuilt unit came with two actual dog tags with the truck's USMC hood number embossed into it. One was on the drivers front frame rail behind the bumper and the other was hanging from the steering column adjuster slot
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