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make sure to check out the body for rust and rot issues. typically bad areas are the rockers, inner fenders, battery trays, and the front floor pans, and in the rear of the tub, as well as the tailgate. make sure you check under the floor mat!

the bolt pattern is a 5 on 5.5, you could use either 15's or 16's as long as the backspacing is close

the tailgate will rest against the shackle mounts on an m101, if you lower the tailgate carefully the paint should be fine.

sorry vet, i was refering to forest522's issue. i would check the 30 amp fuse, and make sure all the contacts are clean for the fuses. I had various light problems with mine, cleaning all the grounds for the headlights, etc, and going through the fuse block solved everything.

the horn is functional only when the service lights are on, so it is possible that the button is stuck.

when I lost all light on my cucv, it was a burned out fuse.

it does not engage the front wheels

the lever on the dash engages the front axle

464 according to the chart on this site

i believe they are interchangable

greetings from VT, I have a former NH national guard blazer I restored, was tan at one point as well.

i would troubleshoot the relay first, since it did start once after the relay stuck2cents

both m101s and m105s have 2 parking brakes

thanks, here is a better pic. in most of the pics of gulf war cucvs i have seen, the chevrons are pretty crooked, although there are some neat ones, and some cucvs have them on the back as well.

I used my m1009 to move a trailer around.

My 1966 Stevens M416 before and after.