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I don't think so. You can use a little antisieze to make sure you have a good seal.

I think you should. You'll need the lowest resistance path possible to get the most accurate compression reading.

You'll need one for a diesel. The pressure should be several hundred PSI. Then have to make an adapter from an old fuel injector or something like that. For engines with glow plugs you normally use the glowplug port. Edit - I see they actually have one for a diesel. Cool.

You'll need one for a diesel. The pressure should be several hundred PSI. Then have to make an adapter from an old fuel injector or something like that. For engines with glow plugs you normally use the glowplug port.

What I would say to that is the engine does not meet spec for power output. Is there any way you can put together a compression tester?

These guys do smoke when loaded up. So going by smoke alone isn't the full story. What you'll want to do is to increase load till it bogs down then set your limit 20% under that.

Insulation is your friend. And bigger is not better.

The manual calls for 30 seconds of preheat for over 50 deg F and 60 seconds if under. Prechamber diesels such as these need some preheat to kick off well. Can't get around the physics of it.

I use these bolts. You'll need washers since the heads are a little smaller than the factory bolts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FAU8FDE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Do you have the original glow plugs in the engine? What is the resistance of each one to ground?

I feel like I'm rapidly approaching that one myself.

Using the shop ground would be fine.

I hope you don't mind using your post to add a bit more clarifying info. Power factor is something we use to characterize the difference between how much energy there is in the electrical system versus how much WORK we can get that energy to do. Regardless of the power factor 1 watt of...

You are going to make a contact burnishing tool. Use the finest grit stuff you can. The idea is to clean the contacts but not remove material from them. Be gentle. How are you measuring the voltage differentials? On the output terminals with a meter or via the internal gauges? Having some...

That's right. Start there and see how it goes. You can use your voltage adjustment to reduce load. Ease down on the voltage till you get to your target kw. That works here since it's a resistive load.

It is different but the real issue is having a gauge that is calibrated for a power factor of 0.8 and how that will under report load for a resistive setup. One of the things I recommend here is to leave the electronic governor alone and run on the mechanical governor until you have the unit...

You do that by buying two and running them in series. Seriously, you can't do that much pressure in a single stage. The rpm required would quickly destroy it. edit - sorry if that reads too much like a smart arse. Too close to bed time.

I'm really looking forward to it. I hate that I've not finished up the schematic. I need to get a bit of motivation to finish it. Once I get home I'll be building a shop. When thats done I'll have the space and hopefully the time to do a bunch of generator experimentation. I have prototype...

This should do it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064MZVZ2/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_14?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Does this help? I think you need to use one of the 5% products (such as D5). That will help you flush things away when you work the switch. If you were treating an otherwise good working switch I would say to use the D100...