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Wow. Looks great!!! I want to stay there for a weekend. :D:D

You're best bet is to use a amp meter you know works. Once you know how the gauges on the unit read you can use them for general readings to understand whats going on. I wouldn't trust on any of them for accuracy.

Have you downloaded the technical manuals and done any troubleshooting for the overload circuits?

Excellent advice to anyone starting one of these or any other large diesel engine. Have a CO2 extinguisher on hand to kill a runaway.

Photos or it didn't' happen! :D It would be great to see how it looks when you're done.

The main things to check if you have no start at the panel is the e-stop, the breaker behind the panel, and the dead crank switch. Any of those will prevent a crank.

Its usually not the meter that has failed on those, its the transducer. I do believe there is a test procedure in the TM. I'll have to look later when I'm back at the apartment. Do you have a frequency meter function on a voltage meter?

And if its not obvious please move that switch only when the unit is not running.

Which needle is dead? The frequency meter or the load meter? Does the frequency meter work? If so you need to get it up to 60hz ASAP. Never idle them. Idling these will kill the VR.

That should be the right kind. If its really dark it could be oxidized. Its normally a tan color similar to caramel.

See if a radiator shop can give you an estimate to repair. They can evaluate any of the other areas and let you know if its worth working on. That may be a reasonable choice cost wise. They may be able to find a core. Certainly possible. What kind of flux were you using on that? You need a...

Is your current radiator not repairable?

Bad rings would explain both the smoke and the low power. I think you are at the decision point to tear it down or not.

RVs are generally not bonded since they are connected to a power system that will be bonded. I would be surprised if your RV has the neutral and ground bonded. Certainly check it. I'll be curious to know what you find.

That doesn't look right to me. Is there any odd wear pattern to suggest that its been moving out of position over the valve?

Not in the cylinder. You'll have 2 gauges on the tester. One is the input pressure. You'll adjust the regulator on the leakdown tester to a value indicated on its leak rate table (input gauge). The second gauge is downstream of an orifice in the manifold that limits the volume of air that passes...

There is an orifice in the leakdown manifold that regulates the airflow into the cylinder. Normally you use about 90psi input.

I think the very small diameter line is restricting the flow too much. Doing a leakdown test is a good idea.

That is correct.

You will be fine with that.