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Edit - defer to post below.

Not unusual. How long did you let it run loaded? The smoke should have tapered off as the rings wear in. Did you set the gaps on the rings?

Yea, they dip the coil in varnish once its wound to increase its durability. That stuff burns off pretty easily with a torch. Think small pocket torch and not a blowtorch. I've been wanting to find out where the joint was physically located on the coil. It should be accessible since it would...

Great news. One of the things I personally do for a first start is I set the valves a few thousands looser than spec. I don't run the engine very long on its first start. Maybe 1-2 minutes. I will then go back and check valve lash and set it to spec.

Send a video if its doing something crazy. If the readings are nice and steady the numbers is sufficient.

One thing to consider is if you didn't find a reason for the no power condition rest assured, it will be back. Be prepared to do more troubleshooting. Study the diagram and get familiar with it.

If you have no juice at the dead crank switch you need to check your battery connections.

Give this drawing a look and see if you can test the voltage in a few locations. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2ucd1TGFTw_b0dqdURiS3lOZlU

Do you have a voltage meter?

I was wanting to see it run with the electronic governor. With it running can you monitor the 24v going to the governor controller and see if its steady?

From a code perspective it's not allowable to have the neutral and ground connected in more than one location (temporary or not). From a practical standpoint it's a very low probility it would ever be the source of a problem.

disconnect your battery and run it again. Check your D.C. Voltage.

Cool. I hope they fix you up so you are ready to go.

Before you do that take it to a machine shop and have them look at it. They may get you going for just a few bucks.

Sure m

Take the large hose apart at the tee and fill it with diesel. Put it back together (important, trust me). Have someone hold down the compression release. Pull the cord 10 times. Try to start it. If it doesn't start repeat the 10 pulls. Refill the fuel line if needed. If it doesn't start after...

Thats a bummer about the valve sealing. For auto heads we test them before putting them back on the engine by putting some acetone in the combustion chambers and look for leaks. That isn't practical here since the head doesn't have a combustion chamber per say. Glad you caught it before...

A good option is to use the John Deer break-in oil.

Looks like you got them shallow enough to let go of the carbon. That will be much better.

Hm. This is tough one. In the spirit of transparency, this isn't how I would run it BUT... Since you are already headed down this path, I would hone it one more time and carefully compare the results with what you have now. If the vertical scratches don't lighten up you'll have to decided if...