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I will take a stab at a few of your questions: A hydraulic maneuvering system could work if all of the components are sized properly. You could even set it up to give you a little bit of push in a 4 (or 6 or 10)-wheel low range situation where you need a little bit more push. Instead of...

I agree that there is plenty of life left in that clutch disk. But, since it is already apart, I would replace it. The flywheel and pressure plate look like new. Why take it apart again some day? What is, some day, those pucks decide to fly apart? Plus, more puck area than you would...

You should be able to tell from the top with the springs connected. Button it all up and step on it with your foot. See how far your foot pushes it down before the slack is gone. If there is no slack, that is a problem, so loosen the adjustment and try again.

I am not clear on whether you have enough free play. How far can you depress the clutch pedal before the slack gets taken up? If not more than an inch, adjust the linkage so you have 2 inches. Too much free play is not a problem unless you have trouble shifting because the disk is dragging...

Without having seen your truck, but from what you have written, you have for sure stressed everything in your driveline. Yet it still all works. That is some strong American engineering. That said, I doubt that you have not hurt something. But, since you still describe what I would...

Clever use of space to stow everything. Nice.

OK, you do not apply the throttle before you release the clutch. That is just beating up the equipment. You appropriately increase the revs as the clutch begins to engage. As soon as you feel the clutch bite, you slightly increase throttle. Try that.

Nice job, I like seeing alternative parts. You done good (nice photos, too!)!

LOL. Mine were loose on the shaft between the tranny and xfer case. Two good 3/4" wrenches tightened them. I am due to check them again.

Are your ujoint bolts loose? Common problem. A 400 mile trip could do it.

More throttle, yes. If the engine rises above where it was at you might be applying too much throttle or you are too slow with the clutch. As DH said above, you should be able (on level ground) to release the clutch without adding throttle. I think it is about impossible to teach someone to...

2000 rpm is way too high for starting out. 2000 rpm will burn a clutch or spin wheels. The idea of applying the throttle as you release the clutch is not to race the engine (leave that to the drag racers), but to MAINTAIN the rpm the engine was at (probably between 800 and 1000) before you...

If you have no free play i the linkage, the clutch can slip. If the reason for no free play is that you are at the end of the adjustment, then it is time for a new clutch. If there is still adjustment, then adjust it and you should be good to go. Note: 'free play' means the distance from when...

I did not hear a knock. Maybe you have one when things get warm. But for sure there seems to be a roughness, so your hunch (and other's advice) regarding fuel seems a good thing to check. I have a question about cracking an injector line to isolate a knock. Let's say #6 rod is knocking for...

Obviously the filter adapters caused a loose bolt or nut to appear in the bellhousing and bounce around as the motor was running. Did you do anything else to the motor when you changed the oil? I still have a hard time believing that an O&F change caused a knock.

Why would changing the oil cause a rod to knock? Could there be a problem with the filter kit, not flowing enough oil? I would probably reinstall the old filters, removing the kit, and start it up to see if the noise changes. It won't hurt the motor any more to run it for a few more minutes.

I am losing track of the colors being used. Which brown is this? I like it a lot.

Now that is funny! :)

It sounds like it is worth it. Expect some maintenance issues. Go for it.

TY, it's good to learn what parts can work with what.