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Remember that if you go with an automatic transfer switch you can't do a whole house version unless the generator is sized for the whole house load. The code doesn't allow you to automatically transfer a generator into an overload situation. With a manual transfer switch there is not such...

That would be best used for consumer generators where you couldn't control how the ground and neutral were bonded. A MEP doesn't require anything more than a standard transfer switch.

Yep. Without a doubt.

The cord is 100'. That lets me keep the generator out of the yard and on the driveway. It also allows for more sound isolation from distance when we are using it in the field to power lights for small film productions. 100' is about the limit I would go on 6ga and still expect full power. If I...

Its about a 5" cube. Not that big. Here is a photo of it mounted on the house with the 50a plug/6ga cord connected.

I hear ya. That inlet box doesn't show the bottom but it does include the 50a receptacle. It is a complete assembly. On the Amazon page it comes across as just a very expensive plastic box but I assure you there is more in there. :)

Voltage drop is absolutely a killer to motor driven appliances. In general a 100' 20a RATED drop cord should be treated as a 15 amp cord for voltage drop. When I'm using my generator in the field for power I use a power distribution box like this one -...

In case you are interested this is the inlet that I used. It uses the "California" style twist-locks with the extra center pin. I like how these fit together better. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TNTZ8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage This would be its matching...

My MEP003 is trailer mounted and serves double duty for field power and home backup power. I have a 50a outlet mounted on the generator frame. When I'm using it in the field I have a cord that plugs into a breakoutbox. When I'm using it for home backup the same cord connects it to the generator...

Totally NOT what I had pictured in my mind. That is so much more awesome!! :D A few more photos would be great.

Overall a bad idea since it can coke up injectors. That stuff is better used for space heating. One of the shops I would visit kept themselves warm in the winter off all their oil changes.

The plate isn't necessary with how you have it hooked up.

It is.

By running the ground lead through the L0 and GND lugs you have bonded them together. You are good.

Great news. That is a common problem and something you should keep an eye on. The vibration of the engine wiggles the wiring around there a LOT on some of the units.

OK. If it goes into OC only after the engine is up to speed I would check the diodes for the exciter.

When you measured the current does it come up to that level from the start or does it start out lower and come up to that after the engine gets to speed? What current do you get if you turn the switch to prime/run but don't start the engine?

Its a 7.5a breaker so I would say that it is suspect at this point. Pop it in and out a few times and try again. If it won't stay in I would recommend replacing it.

Do you have a way to measure the current of the circuit? You need to know if the trip condition is real or if the breaker is bad.

Post up some photos if you don't mind sharing.