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THank you for your diagrams, and your help in general! S14, are you referring to the board with the blue metal shell in this photo? I do have power thru the CR4 diode. however, pin 18 on the blue board has no current in any S1 position, but pin 19 has 22v in start position.

Thanks for the reply, It does sound like that is the case. However As I have said several times, I have tested them both several times and they are functioning as they should. Unless you are referring to a starter solenoid other than the 8 pin relay found under the flip down control panel?

i understand it wont start, my problem is it wont CRANK.

it wouldn’t even be able to generate a signal unless engine is spinning. My problem is the engine wont spin from the S1 control.

The mpu is chewed up, but shouldnt prevent it from cranking right? Only whether it fires?

My fuse comment was replying to Roberts “search quad fuse” comment. anyway, S1 only clicks K21 when in start position. It will not power starter. It will not power the fuel shutoff solinoid. (S1 itself tests good, outputting correctly in all positions) the 3position dead crank switch will...

the unit is new to me. No experience with it functioning. I ohmed thefuse show. test good. In this photo-is this the quad fuse seems an odd name for it. With the s1 in start, i am getting .03 volts thru the fuse. (Pole7 of s1 is outputting 24v nom.)

Ive got a 1000hr 2008 model 804b. it wont crank over with the master control switch. I have run thru all the diagnostics found in the TM. all relays test out good, starter is good, master/dead crank/ emerg.stop switches, and al three breakers test good. I can apply 24v to the starter solenoid...

Please delete.

i beleive all the issues the thread originator has had would have been mitogated by a painstakingly thorough inspection of tge truck, with the idea that every bolt may be hamd tight, and hoses may be routed incorrectly. Every single truck I have owned has needed this. You just never know what...

I have seen this before also! that was my thought too.

Jic

I owe you a public apology. You are correct on all counts, the unit was super crusted on there. I apologize and stand humbly corrected!

About 4awg.

My numbers are pretty inline from others ive spoken with. Mine are in a 1078. I was getting 5-6mpg prior. The old gears will kill these trucks at hwy speeds. Here is a photo of my gps showing 74 vs the tach. Ive hit 76mph but didnt get a photo with the tach.

Again, no. Look at my photos. These are lmtv pattern, with a built in Ctis regulator. Jeez. They are part of the wheel. The internal bits of thevalve can be unbolted but the housing is cast in. They are very slick.

Any idea what they were used on? Curious what the ctis looked like.

Wes, these CTIS do not unbolt. They are cast part of the wheel. Also, this pattern is standard budd lmtv pattern, i had it bolted on. The lugs are a tapered hole. I am familiar with the wheels you are talking about, They are not the same as this one.

Standard 10 lug (FMTV) pattern, aluminum hutchinson. Built in CTIS valve.

Not sure what you are getting at. Are you meaning to say that a tire rated for 9370lbs and 81mph, is not working within its perimeters when loaded at 5000lbs (or less), set at 55psi, and spinning at 75mph? Or are you just splitting hairs?