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You don't happen to have a pic of them in a hmmwv do you? I think they would work great in the back and allow you to get to your under seat storage. Sent from my SM-N920R7 using Tapatalk

I have used microsquirt shift controller in the past. It's cheap and easy, as well as computer tunable. If you guys are familiar with megasquirt this is an offshoot of megashift. Sent from my SM-N920R7 using Tapatalk

The trailer mist be a minimum of 85 inches wide just to get the truck into it. A traditional car hauler type trailer is 81 inches between the fenders. I am making my fenders removable so that I can put my HMMWV on it. It will not even come close at 81 inches. Sent from my SM-N920R7 using...

There are plenty of plug and play ignitions. Look at those military guys or the big auction site.

The bed cover looks great painted.

I am using a cheap Kinter 500 watt amp that had an iPod usb input as well as a normal headphone jack input. It has a remote as well that's handy. It is small and it would tuck into whatever you wanted to put it in. It works well and can be had for almost nothing off of Amazon.

Get a good 19 mm flare wrench and get ready for a good fight with the existing line going into the steering box.

I like that idea but I hate losing the bed. It may become a necessary evil though. How are you keeping it water tight?

I am looking for some ideas. I am looking to store tools and a few odds and ends inside the truck. I want to be able to leave them overnight so it needs to be lockable. I already have a 36 inxh under mount toolbox mounted in between the rear passenger seats. It's a bit big and terribly...

Check Craigslist before you gonthe GL rout. You will pay a small premium for one but you can inspect it before you buy it. You should be able to take it for a drive and have it checked out by a mechanic. For the small premium you can avoid a host of issues.

There is a nice mile marker with the brackets for $850 in the Denton Rally for sale thread.

It's way easier to back out of a problem than to drag yourself through it and then turn around and drag yourself back through it to get home.

I just picked up one of the 18,000 pound warns the other day new in crate for about that much. I am going to Fab up a mount to use it as a rear winch. I was struggling finding all the hardware to mount a hydraulic winch to the rear so I'm just going to make my own.

I don't think there is a military setup for the front hitch. I think that's going to have go be fabricated. It would not be difficult. I would use a hydraulic winch bumper and fab up a mount inside for a receiver.

The mikemarker winch does require two brackets plus the winch bumper itself. I think I paid $85 for the pair of brackets. You will also need the hydraulic lines that plumb the mile marker winch into the hydroboost system. As well as the electrical controls for the winch itself. Unless you...

Here is a copy and paste from another forum. I don't remember where so I am sorry for not giving credit. If you do this you should be able to run 39's or 40's. Here's a VERY thorough post from a guy named*Vadim*on the Mil-Veh: *Originally Posted by*Vadim Get 6 1in spacers, preferrably out...

I wouldn't trust anyone. It's way to easy to swap glow plugs. I would check behind him for sure. Also test the voltage at the glow plug as the truck is cycling.

You can get the manual off of the link I posted on mile markers military site. Are you talking about the two hard lines that are attached to the winch that the lines like the ones above attachment to? If so the only place you will get those is a junk winch or directly from mile marker.

You aren't looking very hard. Go to eBay type m998 mile marker hydraulic and I found all sorts of options. Here are the two part numbers you need. You can type the part number innas well and search for each individual line.

Here is a set. Kinda high though. http://www.hummermarketplace.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=4765