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Getting it to 100% load for 30 minutes and giving it a run to 125% for temporary excursions will ensure the generator head and voltage regulator is working properly. The TM should have load test procedures in it. Light loads won't test the generator properly, if you can't switch the house over...

One thing I've learned about mechanical systems in all my years, things break when they are going to break. Your test regiment should include some kind of load test bi-annually, and your excersise only needs to get the generator's engine up to temperature - just to evaporate any condensation...

That's probably the best DIY generator install I've seen in a while, and I'm glad to read that you did the permit and inspection for the work too - I've argued with people about that here before. A report like yours should show that is not difficult to do it right and encourage more to follow...

Usually the datasheet will have the recommended values for the capacitors, the other part you need to know is the temperature rating for the capacitors, and the peak voltage for the capacitors. I like to design to 4x the voltage I expect on a circuit, so for the 5v output, you'd use 20volt...

So the baby stopped screaming and I had a moment of clarity: you can get a L7805 non adjustable regulator and save a few parts (no voltage setpoint resistors). You can get it in -40 to +125c in an insulated package. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/L7805ABP/497-4226-5-ND/725181 This...

One last suggestion, keep the LEDs as far back in the fixture a you can, so that each individual LED will "fill" the lens with light as much as possible. This method provides the most pleasing visual appearance in my opinion.

-50c to +150c is the normal military semiconductor range. It's also more expensive if you go to a non military part vendor since it's less common. I like to design for military ranges, but I know I'll never need it. :) For my new vehicle I just went out and bought the Grote fixtures from...

The LM338 is the same part with a different temperature rating and package and is incidentally easier to find. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/LM338T/LM338T-ND/3701319 Not quite as wide a temperature range (LM138 is good for -50c to +150c), but is also easier to put in a cramped...

Sorry, went back and added to my last post before your latest post hit. The LM138 is $1.52 in single quantity, the voltage setting resistor, two capacitors, and shut-off diode are less than $1 per fixture.

I also like a voltage regulator to reduce the voltage below the lowest droop - then the LED + resistor. This way you won't have flickering or dimming when you idle-down or turn on your windshield wipers or start the engine. Regulating down to like 7volts, then using the current limiting...

You need between 80 and 300 candela emitted from the lens to meet federal regulations for a brake light. Figure roughly a 15% loss through the lens - figure on 6 being your absolute minimum being illuminated before you replace it - but you'll want more like 18 of those LEDs to start with.

Yes, a lockup conveter will lock typically at the top end of city speeds, the most power is demanded when the truck has to go fast. The square square body trucks are like a brick with respect to aerodynamics, and the faster you go the harder it has to push through the air. The wide tires these...

And a ton of heat - there is a benefit to the lockup converter, the normal torque conveter multiplies the torque by having transmission fluid shear between two finned discs. This shearing action puts a lot of heat into the fluid. In a lockup converter when the two discs get to nearly the same...

Assuming stock drive train other than the final gear range you're looking at 3000-3500RPM for those highway speeds - and this assumes your torque conveter is locked up. You can hook up the lower (12volt) alternator to an electronic tach if there is an exposed AC terminal or tap it into a...

One last thing, even if you don't plan to paint the inside of the wood enclosure, you should back-prime the wood (inside) before you glue in the sound insulation, this will prevent the wood from getting water damage from moisture.

Nah... Like all good DD 2-strokes, it's just marking it's territory. That's awesome - if only I could find a practical excuse to get one of those that the wife would believe...

Good luck this season, it may be a wild one - out here on the left coast we just have to worry about burning down.

Construction adhesive on the cold side (face away from the genset, the plywood side) will work fine. Normally this insulation is wedged between studs or nailed in to place, but glue is acceptable practice. This is a VERY crude drawing of what I'd suggest: The black lines are your structure...

Check your local Home Depot or Lowe's. Figure around $6/sq-ft for 4" mineral fiber, $3/sq-ft for 2" mineral fiber. Other trade names are Rock Wool, Stone Wool, and Acoustic Batting. The blower I suggested is common for replacement in a central heat application, so you should be able to...

My dad did something like this for his Honda generator, the key for sound control is vibration isolation and right angles for sound to travel around. He made his with a hinged top and one end that would fold down so he could pull out the generator to service. Sound waves are a difference in...