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First time always sucks. My EUCs are down to 3 or 4 days now after being sent to Battle Creek. I just got cleared for Ev 5127...pickup is Monday. Get ready for another Mike Hatfield delivers video. Should be posted sometime Tuesday.

Yea, it is a Memphis equipment job. Here is the link to the old thread on the truck. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/44422-help-id-wrecker.html I almost bought it a few months back until I saw how much work it needed. It was also misrepresented in the original Ebay ad. It would have...

I installed an electric water temp gauge on one of my M1009s. My method of mounting was to remove the STE ICE port from its mount and mount the gauge in the holder. 4 bolts/nuts and STE port pulls out the back, wire tie it up under the dash, and you have a nice 2" mounting hole for a gauge...

Glad someone finally commented on my song selection! There are definitely no winches, but the boom does work. Needs new hydraulic hoses though. To start you have to use a screwdriver or wrench on the starter. It also has a block heater. It would be a nice project and if you called Terry aka...

Aboonski and I made some you tube videos of this wrecker.

I agree it does sound very high. The shop is one of the most expensive in town. Unforutnately, they are also the only guys with a booth big enough for the ambulance.

I had a shop quote me around $2100 to do a 3 color camo job on my M1010 using Sherwin Williams CARC. These guys painted some HMMWVs for Titan corp last year. I am debating it only because the truck is so nice. My other vehicles have received Gillespie rattle can jobs with decent results...

I should have read the first post more carefully. If you want to use the rear bus bars, move the RED to the rear battery NEG ( 12V+ ) and leave the BLACK on the ground bus bar. That will give you 12v, just like the truck uses for the lights, etc.

Use the rear battery NEG terminal which is where the 12v bus in the truck derives its power. The rear battery NEG term is tied to the front battery POS term, so it does give you the 12V you need. On a side note, does any one know the exact reason they tap the 12v at this point and not the front...

PM sent. I could drive my M109A3 over to see how it works on the ole shop van.

I might need a shop van ladder. Where in FL are you?

:shock: Has that actually happened to anyone here before? I've found all kinds of loose parts before...but a loose shop van body...yikes! That would make for a VERY bad day.

After you installed the new filter base, did you follow the proper procedure to bleed the air out? Remove pink wire from IP open top bleed valve make sure hose is connected to top port on base with a catch container crank crank crank some more until a steady stream of diesel comes out the tube...

That is why you need to have more than one! Seriously though, it was said above..there are good ones and bad ones. I've been lucky. All my cucvs have given me very little hassle and I drive my cucvs daily.

Did you order some breakers as well? If not, see the attached installation guide for sizing. The Sure Power will most definitely solve your problem. The hardest part will be running the 4 AWG wire inside the engine compartment. My install used 2 AWG. Good luck.

Thanks for the tip! I'll check this out once I get the front wheels back on. I tore down the front assembly to repack my bearings and fix some sticking calipers.

Yea, PTO. Thanks.

I tested the setup on one of my M1031s yesterday. The governor worked fine until I turned off my air compressor breaker, then it went flat out. I shut the whole system down and started again, same thing. I do have hard copy TMs for this truck, so I will be digging in and figuring the whole setup...

Cold advance solenoid

I have the "Permanent Antique (AQR)" tag for all my registered MVs REGARDLESS of their age or weight. Yes, that includes a few of my CUCVs. I mail my paperwork to Tallahassee per form "HSMV 83045". I had the paperwork come back once. So now when I mail the paperwork, I include a photo of the...