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In addition to everything else stated above, I would also try loosening 1 injector line at a time while it's running, just to make sure you're firing on both cylinders. Crack 1 line, RPM should drop as engine stumbles. Tighten and repeat on the other cylinder. Your problem definitely sounds...

Interesting, Do you think the wires came loose from the diodes getting hot or something? I wouldn't think the loose wires would drain the battery unless you had a short in there, which I would also expect to melt wires etc. Wondering if the diodes could have gone bad and overheated causing the...

Something to keep in mind is that in the picture of the control panel, the gages ( oil, temp and fuel level ) are still in the operating range. This means that no one has attempted to start the machine since the last time it WAS running. If anyone attempted to start it and failed, the gages...

Correct! As mentioned in the original post that transducer is not meant to be a drop in replacement, but rather an affordable / available substitute. There was a time when the originals were still available in NOS form, but at an insane price of close to $500! For the sake of drilling a couple...

Agreed, you application looks much better suited for using the right angle mount adapters that LITD linked to. Looking at your pictures you may have larger hoses than the 1/4" NPT fittings used on the smaller sets, so either use the appropriate size hose ends, or appropriate threaded bushings...

Unfortunately It looks like the 007 is quite a bit different than 002-005 as far as the actual canister mount.

PM sent:) to PW....

Looking at the filter application it appears that the filter on the 007 is the same as the 004 and 005, which my adapter works on. My adapters will fit the same mounting bolt pattern as the OEM Fram canister base, so you should be all set, but if you want to send me a picture of your housing I...

Sounds like your transducer is barely hanging on to what little life it has left!

Once you're satisfied with the hot start, make sure you go back and verify that the starter won't engage if you try to crank while its running. The TM will give you the specifics, but the interrupt switch is supposed to break the circuit at somewhere around 600 RPM ( IIRC ) so you can hold in...

SO lets go back to S7 for a minute. You were 99% of the way there a few days ago, but I think you got a little mixed up with the testing of S7 both hot and cold. Anyway... before you fight things any further and replace the switch, try giving it a tiny bit of adjustment outward ( unscrew ) the...

That screw in your way is the back side of the throttle stop screw. In reality you could cut it off a bit with a dremel and small cut off wheel. The piece in your way is the excess screw, not the business end of the screw. I'm confused on your S7 issue. You said you have no connection between...

So you are only having a no-crank issue while the motor is hot. and it sounds like you haven't gotten the cover off the S7 but you verified the contacts are closed, I assume you probed the leads to verify? Have you checked to see if you're getting power to the small wire on the starter solenoid...

Not sure if you tried already, but if you take the center stud out for the S7 cover you should be able to get it out. It's pretty difficult to get it out with the removed and almost impossible with it in place.

You guys really go deep into fuse selection! many many time I just went to my assortment of glass tube car fuses and grabbed a $.25 30A 1/4 x 1 1/4 AGC fuse, install it and done! On the oil gage situation I see someone already changed the oil pressure gage, I'd double check the wiring and check...

That's way too high class for what I talking about... :ROFLMAO: When I say cheap junk from China I mean this...

Never saw that on any 802 / 803 new, used, reset or rebuilt motor.

You kind of lost me on the thermal cut-out switch. That wouldn't prevent cranking, but it would cause the gen to not stay running after you let go of the start switch. The S7 starter interrupt switch under the cover near the alternator fuse will prevent cranking. Sounds like you may have more...

Actually I've used several CHEAP digital meters in the past and they were fine. I used the cheap "Domestic" rectangular digital meters with the red display ( $15 ) ( Sold domestically, but probably built in China ) as well as the rectangular ones with the blue display ( $10 ) both functioned...

Before replacing the starter did you check for power getting to the starter solenoid, and are you sure the click you are hearing is the starter and not the Fuel solenoid and starter relay? Agreed the new starter is a better design, but you might want to investigate deeper to be sure the starter...