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Heck, for that kind of money I have a good Ambac M50 pump for sale that comes with a spare low ( 250) hour, fully tested and serviced 002A attached to it ! Not too long ago I was able to buy M50 rebuildable cores for $50-75. Now it's cheaper to buy a whole machine just to rob the pump off it.

At this point you might want to consider just pulling the pump off and taking it apart to be sure it's good. The problem with the PSU pump is that it's " shear pin" design is somewhat flawed such that the plunger itself will often snap in half at it's thinnest point rather than the head breaking...

To confirm above regarding tank removal, you can not remove the tank without unbolting the whole radiator housing. There isn't enough room to tilt it out with the radiator support in place because of the dropped sump area. Or at least I've never gotten on to come out!

Well, if it was working at one point, seems as though both VR's probably did have the same issue.

At TDC the valve can barely move at all, so it shouldn't be a problem getting the keepers out. If he has a problem you can always get in there with something to hold the valve up, or even stick some string or thin rope into the cylinder, then rotate the crank by hand to push the rope up and...

Interesting! Puffing / popping in the intake definitely sounds like a leaking intake valve. If it's wet stacked I have seen many sets where a valve gets hung open just a bit due to carbon buildup on the valve/seat. I have fixed a lot of them by removing the valve spring, pressurizing the cyl...

Before you go ahead and replace the DC VR with a new one, assuming this set never worked correctly for you, Perhaps you should make 100% sure the wires from the stator , VR and the filter are all connected to the correct screws on the terminal block. Having 2 VR's in a row that product TOO MUCH...

I believe your voltage regulator is bad. The gage is simply a volt meter, not an ammeter and you are up over 34VDC, which is going to wreck your batteries eventually. You should probably retest the stator first, I think something was wrong with your measurement technique, I don't think you can...

There is a ground strap under the lower left rear corner of the control box. Check that. It's a braid strap connecting the control box to the chassis right under where the connectors exit the rear of the control box. I believe you should also have a connection from the battery - on the starter...

Also, when you checked the voltage, I assume you tested right at the gage? Where did you place your negative lead? If I recall, the Batt gage grounds through the gage panel, you might want to verify you have a good connection between the gage and panel as well as panel to chassis/batt. neg.

Inside the control box find TB-5 screw#8 and test DC voltage there, are you getting 12V or 24V?

If your wife does end up knocking you off, I have first dibs on the Stang.

I assume your float was twisted a little and the float was binding up against the side of the tank?

Which motor mount is missing? One of the forward mounts towards the radiator fan? Just an FYI incase you aren't familiar, these machines only use the 2 forward mounts and the mounts on the generator head, they don't use any mounts at the 2 rearward tabs on the side of the block near the bellhousing.

I'd pull off the rear cover to access the fuel pump. Unplug 1 item at a time and retest to observe when the problem goes away. Start with the pump itself. If the issue remains, unplug the dual float assembly ( if you're unsure of what I mean just ask ) If the issue still remains, unplug the...

Agreed... I have run into the same issue before myself. Paid top dollar for OEM parts ( 6X more expensive than ebay stuff ) and received the same cheap Chinese junk available dirt cheap elsewhere instead. If they are going to sell knockoff crap, at least label and price it as such, for transparency!

S3 would not be causing your problem. As mentioned, the generator SHOULD be producing power whenever the engine is running. That power should always be present at the AC outlet ( assuming it's CB is good ) it will also always be present on the input wires of the contactor. You don't have power...

Proper fuel treatment is definitely the key to success these days. I've used most of the major brands of diesel treatments in the past, most recently I started using the OptiLube XPD, after reading the report someone posted here 6 months or so ago. I tell everyone I come in contact with to treat...

Recently I've been seeing increasing numbers of failures with the Ambac M-50 Injection pump plunger guides. This is attributed to the lower quality LSD fuel available over the last few years. The reason for this post is to alert 002 / 003 owners to a slightly different failure mode on these...

That motor did come with optional electric start, but once you get it running correctly they actually start pretty easily with the rope coil.