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IMHO that is a very bad idea, the original intention of the 14V tap (what it is called on the reg) was to balance the additional load on the low side battery caused by the transmission computer, it was never intended to run additional loads, you could use it to power a modest radio but nothing...

How to you plan on charging the two batteries in parallel?? you cannot just connect them in parallel with the low side Hawker

Welcome to the SS forums!!

If you are going to run a large 12V load you will need an inverter, do not unbalance your system with two batteries running in parallel in series with the other 12V battery which is what I think you are talking about, the 12V (14V tap) on that regulator should not be used for large 12V loads, as...

It is an EMI filter, clearly on the schematics, yes I would leave it in place

Welcome to the SS forums!!! The reason you got the 400A alt cheap is because just about everyone that has one wants to git rid of it and for good reason, they are hard to keep mounted because they are SO heavy, they make working on the truck even harder and they have a bad habit of destroying...

I would suspect the flasher unit, have you changed any bulbs? Edit, the original bulbs have two (redundant) filaments, it is conceivable that one of the redundant filaments could burn out and cause a flasher unit that was right on the edge of working to quit, but the bulbs still light.

I got my little "test" rig put together today, I bought a trailer axle spindle, welded a short stub of pipe on it, stuck an old trailer hub on it, put it into one of my engine stands, used a couple muffler clamps to mount a piece of steel for the dial indicator. I have a modest stack of 24 bolt...

Swapping in a different switch would be my next move.

Are you sure you have a REAL factory light switch?

Sounds like you have been buying your jacks at Harbor Freight :ROFLMAO:

Welcome to the SS forums!! Go ahead and torque to specs, that is what they are for, so far it sounds like you are doing good!!! Over torque means not using a torque wrench and over tightening them.

I am curious how the water gets from the IP into the crankcase?

The hydraulic system on a HMMWV is an "open" system, it has very little pressure until it is called upon to do some work. It may be quieter with thinner fluid but the system will build whatever pressure is required for the task it is asked to do as long as the pump can supply it. EDIT, otherwise...

Welcome to the SS forums!!

I'll be, that is a roller pump not a vane pump, roller pumps are also notoriously noisy.

Sounds like the gov. is sticking at no fuel, when you release the pedal the gov. inside the IP goes to no fuel until the RPMs get under 700 or so then it opens the fuel back up enough to maintain idle, you might add some lubricity additive to the fuel and also give it more running time. There is...

That plug shorting out is fairly common, this info will help!

Sorry, my bad...

DELETE, AGAIN, my mistake!