Search results

About a 99% chance they are knock offs, especially given the prices

You have a Command and Recon light armored vehicle? :LOL:

Is it possible you bought a knockoff flasher module? Virtually all "aftermarket" HMMWV electronic parts are crap, unless you bought it from a reputable dealer, Kascar, HPG, MAC Motors or AMG you very likely bought crap. I would have to study the schematics again but I do not believe the turn...

In my case it is nothing like say a late model vehicle that has had the lug nuts over tightened causing the rotors to be warped. It is more of a deep growling that resonates through the body but there is no feeling of pulsation in the pedal, I have checked all the usual suspects for tightness...

My DuraVee has been doing that for the 13,000 miles I have driven it, nothing has come loose or broken yet, I suspect the pads are glazed but never cared enough to change them. As with others it only happens when I heat the brakes up beyond normal driving.

Welcome to the SS forums!

Ether will work fine for you, I use the past because it can fill a 2" gap between the bead and the rim to inflate a tire (common with tractor tires), not an issue with the HMMWV tires, I get mine in 5 gal buckets.

Welcome to the SS forums. Not to be facetious but have you downloaded the TMs that are here for free to all? It is a great way to get to know your truck and all the parts that make it work. Here is a link to the downloads the first 7 or so will get you started...

RUH ROH

That window is rather small, not sure how well you can see the piston, the piston can sustain damage and still be OK, it is the area around the circumference of the piston crown directly above the ring lands that you would be concerned with. Replacing a piston is not too much work after the head...

Unfortunately when you pull the head you may find significant damage to the piston after eating all those glow plugs, the real problem is if the damage is close to the outsides of the piston crown indicating that the ring lands have been collapsed seizing the top ring, it is somewhat like...

I corrected your grammar... Actually cracked cups are common, there is a "standard" for how long the crack can be and still re-assemble the head, although that one looks pretty bad, you may have found the issue. You can pull the head and have the cups replaced, there is an "updated" version I...

At this point you are not trying to determine if the engine is worn out or not, the exact compression number is not as important as the difference between cylinders, yes it will be lower cold than if hot and you do not have the prescribed test equipment so you are not sure how much the setup you...

I 100% agree with Autonomy_Lost considering how poor the doors are secured and the fact you have no air bags or ANY other safety features seat belts are the LAST thing you want to buy "cheap" So pony up and buy the real thing from a reputable dealer...

When you scoped the pre-cup can you see that it is intact, can you see the little "window" going into the cylinder and it looks like the others?

No listed nomenclature on this unit, I am curious about the specs.

I do understand and somewhat agree with your assessment of Chicom products, many of the parts used in US "manufactured" goods are made in China, Look at HD, just about everything on a Harley has been made in China or some other third world country since the mid 80s But they do have a hand in...

With the pressures you list you have a 17% variance, as a general rule 10% or so is ideal, I am sure there is a spec out there but I do not have it for the 6.2L. IMHO that is not an obvious red flag. I think generally the pressures should be a little higher but for the most part one is looking...

That is really odd, interested in the comp. test. Do not discount the advice given by others regarding the aftermarket (chicom) glow plugs, they have reputation of giving nothing but trouble in the HMMWV world and have for a long time. Although this may not be your present problem.

I do not know if there is a troubleshooting guide or not, it is the simplest thing on a HMMWV. Pull the inst. panel, the fan switch gets its power from one of the circuit breakers behind the inst. panel, should be real obvious, then there is a low speed resistor connected to the switch for low...