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I know there were some trailers sold at GL in the west TX vicinity earlier this week. IF anyone out east bought these, I could bring that east with me. My route is flexible. I do have to go through Oklahoma City and Carthiage, MO. At that point, I have an option to go to Atlanta or to...

That's it.

Check the fluid, if it still has bubbles, wait 15 minutes then run thevehicle for 15 minutes turning the wheel all the way to the left and right another half dozen times. Do this until it clears. It worked the first time for me. Don't forget to remove bungy. Check brakes several times and...

With the battery still disconnected, turn key and pump brakes several times. Then connect battery and start engine. Let it run for up to 15 seconds then turn off. Check for leaks. Check fluid level. Fill as needed. Don't be surprised if you don't have to add much, if any. Now let the...

Once the new hydroboost has the brake master cylinder piston in place, it's time to reassemble. Hydroboost into fire wall. Connect 4 nuts on engine side of fire wall. Put on 2 cab side nuts. Pop hydroboost brake piston rod on brake pedal arm. NOTE: it will go on easy. If not, twist it 180...

Now pull the hydroboost out. Once out, I had to pull the out the brake master cylinder rod. I don't have photos and the manual is limited on details, so here it goes. Wear safety glasses and keep in mind the item you will be working on is spring loaded. On the end of the hydroboost there is...

At this point all interior items should be free. Time to move back under the hood. There are 4 x 15 mm nuts holding the hydroost on at this point. A nut is located on each corner of the mounting plate of the hydroboost. Remove these 4 nuts and pull the hydroboost.

Now locate the 2 x 15 mm nuts (one on each side) of where the hydroboost piston rod comes through the firewall. Doing your best gymnist twist, get the 15mm socket on these and use the swivel attachment next and then 2 x 10 or 12 inch extensions and then the ratchet. This is the hardest part...

Once the bracket is removed, use pliers to pull the retaining clip that keeps the hydroboost piston rod on the brake pedal arm. There is a washer that comes off after the retaining clip. Then using the flat tip screwdriver, pop/gently pry the piston rod off of the brake pedal arm.

Using a 14mm and a 9/16 wrench, undo the stoplight switch plate on the brake pedal. You will need to undo this to get the hydroboost rod off of the mount above it and it also makes room to get to some other bolts later on.

Disconnect your battery at this point if you haven't already done so. Then I went inside of the cab and put a towel on the floor to protect me against the power steering fluid. Unscrew the plastic cover under the steering wheel (4 screws) and the metal plate (2 more screws).

DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BRAKE LINES. The issue is your hydroboost not your master cylinder. So unscrew the the 2 x 15mm nuts and pull the master cylinder off and use the bungy cord to hang the master cylinder from the hood so it is supported and out of the way. I had to use a 1/2 inch wrench...

So first step is to summon up the courage to attack this on your own. If I can do it, you can. Keep in mind the manuals are written on a 6th grade level so that should help also. Next is to download the portion of the manual that applies. Next get the tools. You will need metric wrenches...

Title will hopefully catch unnecessary future posts and let folks know what is going on and how to repair it. So I had what appeared to be oil in the drivers side floorboard. Some might first think radiator or oil leak. The fluid is too clean for my oil and it is too oily for antifreeze so...

As my other thread showed, the first hydroboost was defective. Got the new one today. Took pictures but will post those as a step by step thread on replacing it. So far, the new one appears to be working.

This is an abnormal NSN but it appears to be a VT17 Telephone truck. No information for this truck.

No info and this is most likely a USAF truck based on the registration number, which is most likely incorrect because it should only be 6 characters.

Organization: 175TH ADJUTANT GENERAL COMPANY Location: MILLER SCHOOL, VA Nomenclature: TRUCK CARGO 2-1/2T Model: M35A2 NSN: 2320000771616 Serial Number: 12522467 Registration Number: 4H7650 Year of Mfg: 1966 INFO MAR 2002

Organization: 438TH SIGNAL COMPANY Location: GREENFIELD, IN Nomenclature: TRUCK CARGO 2-1/2T Model: M35A2 NSN: 2320000771616 Serial Number: 52522218 Registration Number: 4H81071 Year of Mfg: 1971 Manufacturer: 65909 INFO FEB 2008

Organization: 1032D TRANSPORTATION COMPANY Location: GATE CITY, VA Nomenclature: TRUCK TRACTOR 5-TON Model: M52A2 NSN: 2320000559260 Serial Number: 952412159 Registration Number: 5E7591 Year of Mfg: 1968 INFO MAR 1994