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Just for future reference.

Not all the boys, I prefer good ol Gates safety stripe! IMHO it seals easier, does not require "special" clamps, and hoses should be black, the silicone is too dang shiny again IMHO. But our differences are what makes the world go round!!

A repeating 12 means no codes, are you having transmission problems? That is in the troubleshooting guide

I get a chuckle every time I am in Walmart, the Wally world Supertech oil filters are made by Champions Labs Inc and they have a much better rep than Fram and they are cheaper too :LOL:

I am also a fan of wix. But I worry now that they have been bought by Mann-Hummel who also owns Purolator and several other filter companies, these takeovers rarely lead to better products.

Thanks, I found one company that has several products, their copper bearing coating they say is the most effective under 30Mc which would be my main concern, they also have a silver bearing coating but of course it is much more expensive. My first thought is if I laid out a "cage" made from...

Turns out there are allot of spray in RF shielding products, time to do more research!!

Welcome to the forum, since you are in FL you can use your favorite brand of diesel oil 15-W40 year round. I use Delo, Shell Rotella, or Delvac whatever TSC has the cheapest. No value in using full synthetics this is a "dirty" engine and needs frequent oil changes, I recommend 3K/ once a year.

You replaced the torque converter? the TCC is the torque converter clutch. It would be pretty rare that the trans would drop back into limp mode (2nd gear only) or not shift into 3rd and 4th and there not be any codes, make sure that you do not disconnect the batteries and erase the codes before...

The only component I do not have besides the Starlink (waiting for new version) is the ALS500, I keep hoping something more reliable will come along. Maybe something 24V, there are allot of 48V amps/components etc. out there. I have a few Harris RF110A's that are totally bullet proof but that...

For HF/VHF/UHF (mostly for HF/UHF) I will be using a IC706MKIIG, ALS500RM amp and a SCG235 tuner into a Harris SB-V16/V35 HF Whip Mobile and whatever my imagination can come up with stationary. #2 VHF rig will be a Racal VRM5080 and its matching auto tuner and whip. #3 VHF will be a 110W...

Thanks, I am well aware of sound RF practices, I was a communications/SCADA tech for 37 years.

The iron and lead were the first oil sample with unknown oil/mileage after I bought the truck The LMM was the first Dmax to use a particulate filter requiring a regen cycle, the brainiacs at GM used the #7 injector to introduce raw fuel into the exhaust, They injected that during the exhaust...

The additive analysis is only $10 more IIRC. If you see "glitter" there is no need for an analysis. Are you saying the high iron and lead have no meaning? or that warning would be detected in a coolant sample?

No but most will have the radiating elements above the roof, the big HF antenna will be on an offset mount and likely with a base extension to get the base to roof level

I'd like to be a fly on the wall the first time an 18 year old drops a wrench in the wrong place, or see a cargo hold full of them chain react as has happened recently.

I use Blackstone, sometimes you do not get the report you want but it is best to know, a small coolant leak can be detected before it becomes a big issue. I bought a 08 Dmax 1 ton and the first report shows iron and lead, NOT good news, I think the iron is from the regen system not working...

So I am installing the helmet top on my HMMWV and am contemplating ways to create as much of a ground plane as possible. I plan on running a vast amount of radio equipment including a 500W HF station and would like to avoid over exposure and make antenna matching as easy as possible. Thin sheet...

I think it would be closer to 50-75K. maybe more. Never underestimate the power of stupidity

In have some but I am hanging on to them until I find a good cross over vent and see how many from my "stash" I need. Can you take a closeup of the far left side where the vent is evidently bolted to the windshield frame?