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Folks that have that system claim it has allot of capacity, even in S FL, which is almost as bad as being in S TX.
I have an intercooler so I really don't have room for a cond. up front and as you say not really interested in adding to the stack, time will tell, ask me again in June/July :)
You are probably OK, the trans does run pretty hot, like touching the radiator.
If you suspect anything you can see if you have any codes, not all codes set a trans light on when running.
Here is the troubleshooting guide in case you do not already have it.
Also disconnecting the batteries...
170-190, as a general rule anything over 230 is big trouble.
Do you have a working trans light????? if the TC is not going into lockup it will heat quickly, in fact the trans should not go into lockup until it is at operating temp.
It is the one in the picture above, a 1994 M1097A1 the top and rear doors are going on the Duravee.
It is in very nice condition, they stripped all the electrics and steering components, why the front wheels look a little wonky.
IMHO the Basic or A1 is the way to go because of the 2.56 gears.
Everything but the wipers and fans are 12V, no reason not to, trying to blend the two wiring harnesses would have been a bastardized system to say the least.
Re wiring is much better, trying to run the 24V gauges on the Dmax would have been a pain.
I have two complete systems one 12V and one 24V...
Turned 13K the other day, still loving it every time I drive it, installing A/C and a low profile helmet top at this time, then she gets a new paint job!
I have my eye on a few Dmax salvage trucks coming up for auction, after I turn the DuraVee into a soccer mom truck with doors, top and A/C I...
Top priority for anyone with a 4L80E should be a working trans light, it is absolutely essential in troubleshooting and helping to insure you do not fry the transmission.
What code/codes does the TCM report?
If you are not already you need to start reading the codes and using the troubleshooting supplement.
I would venture to say you are getting a 37 or a 38, brake switch stuck on or off, you are likely not driving it far enough to get a code with the switch...
Also again do all voltage tests with the equipment connected, use a sharp meter (or test light) probe to pierce the wire jacket, When I locate 290, 537 and 657 at the TCM I wrap a bread tie around them to make it easier to find the next time I am looking for voltages (or ground in the case of...
You cannot connect the relay incorrectly, it does not matter which way 57/29 are connected or the 290/291 wires. one side has female and the other male connectors, same thing with the circuit breaker.
You need to start confirming if you are getting 12V to 537 and 290/291 at the TCM then if not...
You should have 24V across wires 29 and 57 at the transmission relay in the run position.
57 goes to ground and 29 goes to the run circuit.
This is the only place in the transmission circuits you should have 24V
This is shown in the picture above.
Did you check for 12V at 537?
If you do not have power going into the TCM box at 290/291 then check 537, if you have power there then you have a relay problem, ether the relay wiring or 24V feed to the coil.
If you do not have power to 537 then you have a general 12V feed/breaker issue.
This should be checked at J1 going...
Sounds like you have a short in the lighting wiring and you are tripping the breaker, can you drive it in the daytime with the lights turned off?
Check the wires around the steering shaft for chaffing.
If you feel brave turn the lights on and reach up under the dash and move the wire harnesses...
So you had a code 83 and replacing the TCC solenoid did not fix your lockup issue AND you do not have a lockup issue with the TCM disconnected then the only place left to look is the harness/connectors and the TCM itself.
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