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I'm surprised you did not connect directly on the front battery positive cable, to lessen the load on the inter battery cable. When I redid my battery cables, I actually moved the 12v wire(smaller one) to the front battery terminal, for this same reason.

Ether works below 10F. If your oil pan gets heated, the oil in it will get heated. That warm oil will heat the whole inside of the engine. The pan gasket does not factor in to this in any way.

I've seen the condensation in the gauges before. I would not say that is the issue. I'd wager on the sending unit or a bad wire, or bad ground.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?124109-LMTV-towbar-pin-SIZE

Searching the sight, says yes.

http://www.google.com/cse?cx=partner-pub-4015606617893285:1751224275&ie=UTF-8&q=magnetic+block+heater&sa=Search&ref=www.steelsoldiers.com/search.php%3Fsearchid%3D3628773#gsc.tab=0&gsc.q=magnetic%20block%20heater&gsc.page=1

I'm surprised nothing came up when you searched "block heater".

TM 9-2320-365-24P figure 152. It's on the treadle valve.(above the brake pedal)

Pics?

What kind of cucv are you talking about?

update?

http://www.parttarget.com/5905-01-193-7212_5905011937212_5330011937212.html

Be careful, if all your bulbs were blown you may have a voltage regulator problem. This can happen if you run with a dead battery or no battery or just a bad connection.

Did a search for you. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?125116-Coolant-heater-hose-location&highlight=correct+heater+hose+location+picture

Not really... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Core_plug

Let it run for half an hour, it will warm up.

You could always drain it.

It probably mixed and will be fine.

Your heater is plumbed incorrectly. You will never get to your thermostat temp with it like that. Wind chill has no effect on metal (your engine).

I would simply add ducting to the intake of the fan and draw the inside cab air through the fan(recirculate).